I want to go faster.

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

By jgh
#27464
Hello, I'm new to the forums but I've been reading through them for awhile. I have a basic understanding what I need but wanted to get some input before I made any purchases. I just purchased a used MX500 that doesn't run. I'm assuming it's the batteries. Should I upgrade to a 48 volt setup with 18ah? I'm looking at these lithium batteries but not sure if they are worth the investment. http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/. I was looking at the 52 volt options they had. Any suggestions? Next, I have no welding experience so I was thinking about a 750 watt motor, If I go with the 48 or 52 volt setup should I buy the 36 volt, 750 watt motor? Do you guys recommend the the 60 volt yk43b? I'm looking for something quick off the line with nice top end speed. I have read that a couple people purchased the 100 tooth rear sprocket from rebel gears. Should I stay with the stock or will this be a nice upgrade. Any other suggestions would appreciated, thanks for your help.
By robnewyork
#27466
those batteries have a low amperage BMS so basically the balancing board limits the output, thats fine but if u ever upgrade it will blow the board.
the Yk43b will likely blow any unite motor you buy but welding isnt required to mount a bigger one..
The 750watt or 800watt unite motor is a good option but the stock 500watt will allow you to do most anything u can do with the 750.
You say u want good pickup from roughly 0-20, if u weigh 140 that means one thing 200 that means another.
Bang for the buck ur right , 18ah is the cheapest biggest battery available.I would get 4 of these , u can use them if u decide to go faster
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-18Ah-CB19-1 ... YHmkKtGL8A
While ur at it id get a charger to charge this pack which u can also use if/when u upgrade
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Scoote ... Swx~JWFKqK
now with these things u can wire the bike as is for 48v after doing some hacking to fit the 4 18ah batteries , i had 3 on mine
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2001

so u can run the stock controller on 48v and see what u think needs improvement. the batteries and charger will still be needed for the upgrade either way..if u like the setup u will need a cheap way to monitor the battery voltage since the 36v controller wont cut off till 32v and the 48 pack needs to be put on the charger by 44v..but thats 6 bux.. the charger will wire straight from the charger port to the battery pack.
By robnewyork
#27467
i dont think u will be thrilled with the 20mph stock amperage bike but if thats the case u will simply need to go to the yk43b controller and a motor that will handle it.. changing the gearing only does so much , for example lets say u get a rebel gear with this 48v setup.. yes it will be faster off the line than the stock gear but ur top speed goes down accordingly.. So with 100 tooth as opposed to the stock 80 tooth it will be very quick but top speed will be back down to 15 or maybe 14 from 20 mph.. More amps do the same trick but u decrease run time and need a better motor..in most of my builds i chose more raw power and didnt mess with gearing , EXCEPT ONE, THE CITIGLIDE, MY FAVORITE.. weighed 15lbs , topped out at 8.7 mph but would tow me up the steepest hills i could find.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1900
notice thAT welding wasnt a constraint on motor size with the mx500..the good news is u have no need to buy a 750watt for 90bux as of yet..and you probably wont need one at all when u decide u want the bike deathly fast lol!
By robnewyork
#27470
only downside is this
Max Continuous Discharging Amperage: 30 Amps (60 Amps with High Rate BMS)
aside from the kelly controllers not too many options in this amperage range
By jgh
#27472
Gentlemen, thank you for the quick replies. I'm on my way to work but I'll write back at break time. If no welding is required I'll probably go with an industrial motor. This is my toy, let's do it right!!
By jgh
#27477
Thanks for the reply Noah, I may just stick with the cheaper lead batteries and put my savings toward other parts for the bike.

Rob, that bike you put together with the .75 person looks f'n nice!! I think that's the route I would like to take. I read the post where you went step by step mounting the batteries. Do you have something like that for mounting the motor? Since you have already been through the process could you list what parts I would need to turn this bike into something fun to ride. Thanks in advance, you guys are geniuses when it comes to this stuff.
By jgh
#27479
I'm perplexed, 40 sounds scary, 30 sounds safer. But having the power available is always a cool option to have.
By robnewyork
#27482
jgh wrote:Thanks for the reply Noah, I may just stick with the cheaper lead batteries and put my savings toward other parts for the bike.

Rob, that bike you put together with the .75 person looks f'n nice!! I think that's the route I would like to take. I read the post where you went step by step mounting the batteries. Do you have something like that for mounting the motor? Since you have already been through the process could you list what parts I would need to turn this bike into something fun to ride. Thanks in advance, you guys are geniuses when it comes to this stuff.


the motor mounting was a simple L bracket, theres a sick sick deal on an industrial right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohio-Motor-24-v ... 96?vxp=mtr
this has an internal fan and requires a 1/2 inch sprocket
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... 2-14-D.axd
as for the motor mounting its in my post, 2 bolts through the L bracket and into chassis above the stock motor, then locked down with 3 6 inch hose clamps from home depot.. Cheap and easy and SOLID
NOW , CONTROLLERS
well if you are surely running 48 v i actually recomment lower voltage than 48 with the yk43b.. take notice i only ran mine at 36v for 40mph..But your heavier.Heres the slightly more expensive option on 48v that will be reliable and offer a good top speed that would go best with the rebel gear but not necessary
The motor and sprocket above with batteries with this controller at 48volts
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=186 65 plus ship
so the controller, batteries , charger, and motor are done , now a throttle
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Scoote ... Sw9N1VliTI 8 shipped
This combo with the stock rear gear and 14tooth motor gear give a top speed of 32.07 mph or 30 in the real world.. the accleration will be nice but not exceptional with 220 on it.very smooth ride and a range of 5 miles while cruising, maybe as high as 10 milES.. NEED A ROBUST ON OFF SWITCH ON THE POSITIVE SIDDE FROM BATTERIES TO CONTROLLER

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Battery-Di ... Nh&vxp=mtr
.Total cost, 65 motor , 75controller, 8throttle,25 charger, 124 batteries,6 SWITCH ,AND 10 DOLLARS ON SPROCKET so$ 304.00 GIVE OR TAKE...
#27486
the motor 130 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Volt-A180-Fr ... 1935739623? noah is a member (the seller
SPROCKET FOR THIS MOTOR
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... 2-18-F.axd
DONT FORGET TO GET SOME MASTER LINKS FOR EITHER PROJECT , ORDER WITH SPROCKET
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... 087-25.axd GET 2

the controller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-60V-500W-10 ... f0&vxp=mtr 43 includes throttle
batteries the same , switch same, charger same, L bracket mounting same ETC.. SO THE MATH SAYS THE MOTOR WILL SPIN AT 2800 RPM FOR A TOP SPEED OF 26.3 MPH.. THE ACCELERATION WOULD BE VERY GOOD AS MY setup was 17 tooth and yk43b so im familiar with it
total cost
motor 130
controller 43
sprocket and links 12
switch 6
charger 25
batteries 120
dam 336 total ..not to mention this motor is harder to mount than the other one.(space restriction.
By jgh
#27490
You're the man Rob, I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I know you probably get asked the same questions over and over again. It's cool of you to help out. What part of New York are you from? My wife is from Staten Island, we live in Illinois now. Met her while I was in the military. Thanks again
By robnewyork
#27491
I lived in queens , now Living in LA literally on a Bayou.The cost of living was insane. I usally deal with just adding a battery to make a 24v scooter 36v so this is new. i think option one is easier and cheaper.. and if u need more acceleration switching to a 90 tooth rear sprocket isnt hard for 35 bux or so.. top speed would be more like 27mph not 30.
By jgh
#27496
Not sure, it looks Luke option 1 has a higher top speed with a longer ride time. Option 2 looks to have a quicker acceleration while being a bit slower. What do you think the ride time will be with option 2? If you were building it which option would you prefer?
By robnewyork
#27497
for a cleaner lighter bike, id go with the 1/2 hp ohio motor for 65 bux . so option 1..
longer run time, better top speed, easier to build, and cheaper.and u have options to increase acceleration with the smaller motor, with the bigger motor ud need to fit more batteries which is more weight or add a larger rear gear bringing speed down to about 20mph
By robnewyork
#27498
MY ESTIMATES WERE A BIT OFF ON PROJECT 1, ITS ACTUALLY MORE LIKE 304 SIMILAR TO PROJECT 2.STILL CHEAPER BUT I KNEW I WAS MISSSING SOMETHING lol.once the motor is mounted and chained up the project is easy
By robnewyork
#27499
further advice, order the throttle first, china takes time.. the motor second, its too good of a deal to not sell fast. the sprocket and master links third, so the motor is ready to mount..after that get the controller and switch.. the first thing to do is get the L bracket mounted, anything u may have laying around thats solid.fully inflate the wheel then give it 3mm clearance...
Again, the first option with the stock motor may work but if ur not using it ebay the stock motor and controller to recoup funds, the motor should fetch 40 plus shipping and the controller 20 plus shipping (6bux flat rate , 11 for motor).
By jgh
#27502
I purchased the 24 volt Ohio motor (option 1) If I'm going to run 36 volts will the yk43b controller be a good fit for this motor? If so there is no need to purchase a throttle correct?
By robnewyork
#27503
you can run the risk, id say it will likely work(60yes/40no).. certainly the batteries will fit easier. But if u fry the motor via this method ill refer back to this post lol.so the motor speed would be 3300 rpm with 14 teeth on the motor which means top speed is 24mph NOT GREAT
By jgh
#27506
lol, I don't want to fry the motor. I'm probably going to run 36 volts, which controller do you think will offer the best performance with no threat to the motor. Don't worry about me going after you if the motor fails. That's not me, your doing me a huge favor by helping me out.
By robnewyork
#27508
ID suggest the lower amp controller at 48v bar none (the yk42-2) but if ur gonna run 36v run the yk43b with a 14tooth motor sprocket and the top speed will be 24mph, thats still way faster than the stock bike and the acceleration will be quite good carrying 220lbs.
By robnewyork
#27509
i do caution u that 24mph on this bike is smooth as glass and if u have open space to go full out u may get bored fast.i got bored with 41.6 lol
By jgh
#27510
Done deal, I'm gonna run 48 v and get the y2k42-2. Thanks for finding that other throttle, that's the one I'm getting. Can't wait to start this build.
By jgh
#27528
I ordered everything yesterday, with the bike my total cost is $408. Now I just play the wait game, I'll probably just clean it up and possibly paint it. I may order a new chain as the old one looks a bit rusty. Probably invest in a chain breaker also, just to make life easier. As far as connecting the batteries, do you buy terminated cables or do you terminate them yourself? Rob, thanks for your knowledge and input. I'll keep you updated on my progress.
By robnewyork
#27535
sounds great and the chain breaker will come in handy no matter what (my kart cost 400 also not including the chassis lol

No fuses will be needed, most would blow from the amperage ur running anyway.. I always terminated my own wiring, for the higher amp sides (the motor and battery connections ) id use 10 gauge across the boards. for the low amperage connections (all the rest ) anything will work and 12 gauge is commonly used.. What u can do in the meantime is mount the L bracket, this step is crucial and it needs to be perfectly perpindicular to the sprocket .. this will determine how well ur sprocket will line up.
By robnewyork
#27536
also u can reference my mx500 build for where u need to cut the battery tray in order to fit 3 18ah batteries, or come up with a new method all together since the dimensions are listed online
By jgh
#27558
Is that your buggy? That thing is hauling buttocks, well done my friend. I looked at your step by step for the battery install, good info. This will definitely help. Thanks again.
By robnewyork
#27559
yep, the buggy was clocked at 42mph , sadly it was geared for 67 but the driver (my friend andrew 145lbs ) was terrified by the steering unpredictability at that speed although he said it was still pulling very hard
By jgh
#27676
What's up Rob? Quick question, once you mount the motor, do you have to move the chain tensioner further back on the frame to accommodate the new position of the motor?
By robnewyork
#27679
you dont need the chain tensioner at all to be honest. just a well fitted tight as chain.. the tensioner is good for taking up the slack once the chain stretches a bit.. SHare pics please!!!!!!!!!!!!!
By jgh
#27685
I will, I was try to figure out a way to mount the four batteries, but after a little research I found out they can be installed in any position, up on their side, etc.. Depending on that slow boat from China where my charger is probably sitting it should be ready to ride this weekend.
By jgh
#27706
The motor was tight, but it fit. I stole your idea of bending the sides of the existing battery trays. I have two on the top and two on the bottom. Trying to juggle kids and my side project is not easy, but I'll get it, eventually.
By robnewyork
#27707
sounds awesome !!!!!!!!!!!! yes the tray fits those big boys nicely when bent down..I took a full week off to build that mx500 and drink beer and nothing else. I probably had 50 hours into it by the time i was done .smoothest ride quality of all my builds.
By jgh
#27718
I'm waiting for the chain to arrive (hopefully tomorrow) before I permanently set the motor. This is pretty much how it worked out though.
Attachments
IMAG0418.jpg
The angle iron is set but not the motor
By jgh
#27720
Nothing is actually set yet , but I believe this is the configuration I'm going with. Do you see any problems that I may encounter with this setup? Also, I like your idea about cutting the seat frame. Im really thinking about that option.
By robnewyork
#27721
1.. to free up clearance for the motor remove the mount on the motor and lay the motor into the bracket and secure with 2-4 large hose clamps.. that will save 2 inches
2 as is u have no suspension travel in the rear, so chopping the seat extension may help
3. looks like as is u will need to trim some of the angle iron to align the chain.. another way to gain alignment is to put the sprocket at the end of the motor shaft, this way u dont need to trim as much L bracket to align the chain/..
otherwise it looks good.riot zip ties (the 3 footers) are a good way to secure the batteries
By jgh
#27722
Yes, great idea about removing the mount. I was going to fasten it to angle iron using the mount but never thought about the suspension. I bought hose clamps the other day so I'll fasten it using those. I've got a band saw so cutting the bracket to align the chain will not be a problem. Thanks for the pointers, I can tell you have done this a few times.
By jgh
#27777
The yk43b does not have a plug for the charging port. Where should the black and red from the charging port be placed in the circuit?
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