I want to go faster.

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

#4085
So we won a blue ground force drifter about 4 months ago and its been great. The only thing I did to it was run a 3rd battery in series to make it 36v. Nice little upgrade in speed for my little guy and he loves it. The other day it was ran real low and hard by the kids in the neighborhood. I tried to charge it but the charger (36v) light would just stay green even though I know it was dead so I pulled the cover off and found the fuse to be blown. I replaced it from one at the hardware store and it charged red and turned green when it was done as normal. I thought everything was good except when I turned it on the kart automatically just started going without hitting the throttle. I then turned off and sat in the kart and turn on to see what would happen and it went without throttle again. Very slowly and hitting the throttle didn’t do anything but all the lights on the throttle where flashing etc. Pulled over and you can smell like an electric burning smell and the motor was real hot so I disconnected it and removed the fuse. That’s where im at, looking for some help and advice. Everything is stock, the only thing I did was add a 3rd battery in series leaving the fuse in place and the 2 stock batteries in place as well. I was thinking of just changing out the controller and motor to make a true 36v but don’t know what I have to get and would like it to be as plug and play as possible since im no expert lol. Or if I can just buy whatever’s wrong right now and advice to help prevent this from happening in future..... sorry so long!


#4089
Your controller handles all the lights and stuff. My guess is, if the lights are all going wacky on you, it's the controller.
These guys have a controller:
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/raz ... ifter.html

Also check with TNC Scooters:
http://tncscooters.com/view.php?page=Home

If youre motor is fried i'd bump it to a 350W motor. You most likely have a 250W motor.
http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES

Scroll down 3/4 of the way till you see the motor that looks like yours. Just make sure you order the correct one. Some have a toothed belt and some are #25 chain. Just look at yours.
#4096
Thanks for the great info! When you say 350w motor I see theres a 24v and 36v so im assuming the 36v since I already have three battery's? If so do I just buy a 36v controller and will it just be plug and play? Sorry if these are real newb questions. I think this would be the best way to go anyways so I dont get blowing stuff up.
#4097
usually when you overvolt the controller will either work or it won't. My e300 was 24v, it would not respond to throttle. The lights came on and the throttle just went click.
I got a 36v controller like used in the MX500/650 dirtbikes. It runs 48v easily. I tried 60v 12ah and it blew. it started moving, went click and died.
I tried 7ah batteries and it runs 60v just fine. When I bog it down it gets real hot and shuts down, but will run again after a minute.
I experimented with some 4ah nicds....I ran a 36v 12ah pk just fine. Then I accidently ran the pks in series for a 96v 4ah pk. The controller did not blow, but when I hit the throttle, it stuck. so everytime I hook it up to any volt it just runs full throttle.
so low capacity high volts will cause the throttle to stick.

Also I've been overvolting 24v and 36v motors for sometime. They always get warm as you should have noted in the past.
That being said when you say it got hot, do you mean a lot more than normal overvolt?
I ran a 250watt on 48v and it got super hot quick and smelled like burnt copper.
I upped it to 60v and it burned out super quick, but man was it quick!
you should get a decent shelf life out of the 250 on 36v. If you smell copper, just get a 350watt for $35.
#4101
bassiclyLouDog wrote:usually when you overvolt the controller will either work or it won't. My e300 was 24v, it would not respond to throttle. The lights came on and the throttle just went click.
I got a 36v controller like used in the MX500/650 dirtbikes. It runs 48v easily. I tried 60v 12ah and it blew. it started moving, went click and died.
I tried 7ah batteries and it runs 60v just fine. When I bog it down it gets real hot and shuts down, but will run again after a minute.
I experimented with some 4ah nicds....I ran a 36v 12ah pk just fine. Then I accidently ran the pks in series for a 96v 4ah pk. The controller did not blow, but when I hit the throttle, it stuck. so everytime I hook it up to any volt it just runs full throttle.
so low capacity high volts will cause the throttle to stick.

Also I've been overvolting 24v and 36v motors for sometime. They always get warm as you should have noted in the past.
That being said when you say it got hot, do you mean a lot more than normal overvolt?
I ran a 250watt on 48v and it got super hot quick and smelled like burnt copper.
I upped it to 60v and it burned out super quick, but man was it quick!
you should get a decent shelf life out of the 250 on 36v. If you smell copper, just get a 350watt for $35.

Yes it was much hotter than normal, I think you are right that the controller is the issue. The motor does spin right when you hit the power switch automatically and the controller even though flashes the lights is still unresponsive when trying to go faster. Then the motor is really hot and it smells like and electrical fire from the controller box. Even if the motor is good would you recommend a 36v 350w replacement motor?
#4122
36v 350watt is a bit more expensive than a 24v 350watt, but there would be more advantage. The motor can handle 48v!
The motors take a lot of abuse period. on 60v my motor was still sputtering and smoking trying to go forward. My 1k had a completly wore brush and had smoked a bunch and I was still running it on 48v. You'll notice they start to lose speed, but that's well over time. My 2 650s are completly different, 1 is 3-4mph slower. So I keep it on 48v and the other on 60.

I would get a replacement motor and you have it handy....you can always find some use for a motor. heck run 2 motors...a little hard with your gokart, but you might come across a way.

1 more bit. out of the 24v motors, the 250watt is like 13.7amp and the 350watt is 19.2amp current. amps times volts(36v overvolt) and you see the 24v 350watt motor puts out 691watts compared to the 24v 250watt 493watts.
so you will notice a change for sure. Is it worth $47? depends on what you want.
#4152
bassiclyLouDog wrote:36v 350watt is a bit more expensive than a 24v 350watt, but there would be more advantage. The motor can handle 48v!
The motors take a lot of abuse period. on 60v my motor was still sputtering and smoking trying to go forward. My 1k had a completly wore brush and had smoked a bunch and I was still running it on 48v. You'll notice they start to lose speed, but that's well over time. My 2 650s are completly different, 1 is 3-4mph slower. So I keep it on 48v and the other on 60.

I would get a replacement motor and you have it handy....you can always find some use for a motor. heck run 2 motors...a little hard with your gokart, but you might come across a way.

1 more bit. out of the 24v motors, the 250watt is like 13.7amp and the 350watt is 19.2amp current. amps times volts(36v overvolt) and you see the 24v 350watt motor puts out 691watts compared to the 24v 250watt 493watts.
so you will notice a change for sure. Is it worth $47? depends on what you want.
thanks for all the great info!
#4266
I came across a drifter on craigslist cheap that was parts only, took the controller off it and put it on my sons kart and the lights issue went away and the kart work but considerably slower. Looked at in the garage and the motor was extremely hot, probably would burn my hand if I would keep touching it. It was only running for about 5 min, is it possible that my motor was malfunctioning and burnt out the original controller? I obvious disconnected the battery's and motor. I cant see what else it can be since there are so little parts to it. I wish the parts kart had a motor for me to through in to see, looks like I will be ordering a motor unless anyone thinks its something else? thanks in advance!
#4268
so here's what I think....the kids may have tried to ride a couple kids on the cart, bogged it down, and blew the fuse. When you tried to charge it, the controller shorted out. you experienced the battery to motor on/off switch. When you sat on it and turned it on it was like straight battery amps to motor. it's trying to spin at 3800rpm, but you're holding it down. The excessive load on the motor burned it up. The motor is running slower because it is charred.
I don't know why your throttle blinked.
That really sucks about your motor. time for a 24v 350watt you will see a lot more power! the 250watt motor you had was 13.7a current which is 493watts on 3 batteries. the 350watt is 19.2a current which is 691watts on 36v.
if you have the abilities I'd run 2 350's on 5 batteries. that kart will fly! I just rebuilt my dual motor 300 and forgot how much kick it had. It tops out around 20-23mph and really pills on take off....I should break the chain and swap the 80t for the 44t!
#4269
bassiclyLouDog wrote:so here's what I think....the kids may have tried to ride a couple kids on the cart, bogged it down, and blew the fuse. When you tried to charge it, the controller shorted out. you experienced the battery to motor on/off switch. When you sat on it and turned it on it was like straight battery amps to motor. it's trying to spin at 3800rpm, but you're holding it down. The excessive load on the motor burned it up. The motor is running slower because it is charred.
I don't know why your throttle blinked.
That really sucks about your motor. time for a 24v 350watt you will see a lot more power! the 250watt motor you had was 13.7a current which is 493watts on 3 batteries. the 350watt is 19.2a current which is 691watts on 36v.
if you have the abilities I'd run 2 350's on 5 batteries. that kart will fly! I just rebuilt my dual motor 300 and forgot how much kick it had. It tops out around 20-23mph and really pills on take off....I should break the chain and swap the 80t for the 44t!
5 batteries..... crazy! Sounds awesome but I think my little guy needs a little bit more expierence before that much speed. Can I just buy this motor with the stock controller and three 12v batterys and it just swap right in? according to the specs looks like it will?

http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106110
#4272
yes all you should need is the motor. everything else should work. you blew 1 controller, but you have a backup.

60v is crazy! it pulls me (165lb) around at 20-26mph. At least you know that you can let him grow with it. That's what I did with my kid. she went from a 24v scooter to a 48v dirt bike :twisted:
#4320
bassiclyLouDog wrote:good deal. you'll love it and it will run longer than stock.
omg I cant believe how much the new motor helped! I was able to go 17mph according to my gps app on my phone and I weigh 200 lbs. My son was able to go 22mph on a straight-a-way. Now I have to figure out a more secured way to get the batterys in lol.... thanks again for all your help and advice bro
#4322
well worth the price of admission eh?! on 24v you wouldn't know which motor you had, but on 36v that 350 shines! It has way more pull than the 250.
Happy to help! I had bought mine to run on 36v because at that point every thread said the stock motor got real hot. I figured more motor meant longer life....I didn't pay attention to amp current. this thing hauls!
The razor controller also have a lot of kick. I'm running a 40amp controller and the pickup is less than the razor 30amp controller.
Re: Bladez 450S XTR s upgrade

So excited! Found a way to earn an extra $160 to p[…]