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By karlgeo
I took it all apart and determined that the new 1000 watt should be mounted on top so there was clearance to ride the uneven streets and sidewalks in Seattle. I drilled new holes frame to accommodate the new motor position.
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The white spacers are scrap pieces of AZEK boards that I had for a different project. They are PVC and can be heated to bend to the shape of the frame. I ripped each board to 2 inches wide. I stacked 2 of of the 3/4" boards to make up the 1 1/2" height of the batteries. I didn't want to cut the frame, although its a valid option, I had to get a new extended chain and added the "idle sprocket" for a #25 chain Sitting on the deck in this picture. (ordered on Amazon) with a through bolt under the frame piece closest to the rear tire. It's just enough of an offset so I didn't have to cut the frame at all.
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Since the 1000w motor is so big I mounted it on top for clearance. The batteries are wired in series to make the 36v. (9amps each) with a 30 amp fuse. I painted the AZEK black. The new 36v controller fits nicely in the front. The 36v throttle is also new.
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I got some diamond plate from Home Depot and bent it into shape with clamps
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The front piece was cut with an angle grinder.
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The finished product. It cruises a grown man nicely up hills. I'll test the distance and report back. I've been able to do 3 miles without an issue so far.
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User avatar
By maurtis
Quite nice, I like what you were able to do with just clamps and an angle grinder! What speed did you gear it for?

Rob, I believe he is using 12V 9AH SLAs.
aidanworthington wrote:With all that extra power
how are your stopping distances
Yeah, I had a lot of problems stopping my E300 with the crappy drum brake. A single disk in the back will be more than enough to stop you. My hard stop stopping distance @ 12mph is about 1m, (3 feet).
aidanworthington wrote:(twin disk at the frount would look epic)
I was going to go with a single disk on the front of my E300 next month. Now, however........

BTW karlgeo, I got my disk brake kit here: ... EBIDX%3AIT

$15.00 USD from China! Best part is that it comes with a mount ring that will spin onto the existing mount for the drum! :D
that wont work
the threads have a diferent pitch

what you can do is simply unscrew the drum then mount it backwards so the flat face is at the frount then superglue the disk to it and drill the holes and bolt on
aidanworthington wrote:The hight and spacing of the threads are totaly different.
No, this is my point. If you get the kit from that seller, it seems to fit perfectly on the spin-on ring that the drum attaches to.


The holes are slightly different from a standard brake disc:


here it is mounted:


It seems that in my in initial ignorance, I actually bought exactly what I needed. The guy is not advertising that it is for scooters, but it seems to work perfectly on these spin on hubs.

Plus, it makes my ride have that little bit of extra über! :D
robnewyork wrote:U need more amps !!!
Yeah, I tried a YK31C with that motor, (11/80 sprockets), and I wasn't that impressed. I would get a "popping" sound whenever I hit a hill. I then decided to go the opposite route and installed a YK43B. Lots of low end torque, (which I am trying to smooth out), and runs rock solid. I'm pretty happy with it.
User avatar
By zogthegreat
karlgeo wrote:I'm pretty much at the max for a 1000w motor. 36v x 27ah = 972 watts.
Err, it doesn't work that way, (if I am wrong, someone please correct me). The burst capacity of your batteries are much higher than the "working" capacity: ... 14&t=26621

(I know there is a thread like this on this forum, but I can't find it).

The motor you have will keep sucking as many amps as the controller can deliver. That's why there is the danger of burning out your motor with the yk41b, it dumps a massive amp load on the motor on start up if you give it to much throttle. I am picking up a coil to try soften this today, I'll let you know how it works.

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