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Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

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By noahmercier
#29256
The 17t gear is for the imperial motor with 3/4 shaft. I only have a 12t and 16t for the 5/8 shaft leeson.
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By noahmercier
#29262
what are contactors and relays for? I have seen them on higher power vehicles but I don't understand what they actually do in the circuit, they don't seem necessary.
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By noahmercier
#29263
Its raining today so I don't think I will be able to test it. Even if it stops the road will be slippery.
By robnewyork
#29264
noahmercier wrote:what are contactors and relays for? I have seen them on higher power vehicles but I don't understand what they actually do in the circuit, they don't seem necessary.
Contactors.. they are essentially switches.. BUT act differently.. When large amperage applications like a kelly controller are turned on , the massive amperage connection can cause a lot of problems, with connection points, and capacitors..It may also blow small items that run on the same circuit like bulbs lets say.. what the contactor does is start in the open position , with a wide gap , when excited by a 12 v source, the 2 magnetic coils head torward each other, as they head torward each other theres a an arc, a big one.. What the contactor does is THIN this arc and lessen the violence and heat from the arc.. Picture a bolt of lightning inside a main switch , the contactor ( like it sounds ) makes the electrical contact earlier and from further away ( like a taser) thinning that arc and the corresponding heat. Hope that makes sense, it basically makes a 400 amp connection turn on as smoothly as a 100 amp connection.
What you do need for the kelly is a pre charge resistor across the switch terminals so the capacitors have a slow trickle feed , even when the kary is off., good news is they are about 10 dollars.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pre-charge-Resi ... XQCndRgOp7
By robnewyork
#29272
if you can get the harnesses and wire it correctly ( half the leads arent needed to run a PM motor) i dont see why not.. the 300amp is okay, and as long as its a 24-48v, dont know why the guy ran 36 v.let me scour really fast
By robnewyork
#29273
saw this 48v 500amp, not cheap but brand new

http://www.ebay.com/itm/P125M-5603-500A ... SwdG9XRDcv

this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CURTIS-1243-433 ... SwmfhX7bb6

well the one u found is the cheapest im seeing , except those being sold as is for parts. looks at the diagram , see if it runs on hall 5 v. see if it has a diagram for PM motors, basically making sure the hook up wont take u weeks. it should always be wham bam thank u.. thats whats nice about yk43bs and kellys/
By robnewyork
#29274
from what im seeing , the controller is defaulted to 24v, and all the instructions in the manual seem to suggest the prgrammer option.. I have no clue, im not reading all 20 pages. Im looking for 0-5v here with the word " hall"// and seeing what the default settings are. maybe its all set on max, and we dont know it.. But set on low numbers its a paperweight
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By noahmercier
#29306
I tried it out on Saturday and after 1 minute of riding, the yk43b wires melted. No they were not touching any other wires. There was so many amps flowing through them that they melted from the heat. I am saving up for a Kelly controller now.
By Quinc
#29314
Such an awesome build! Are you welding the gokart yourself or at least helping/learning the process? It looks pro! Sorry to see how the thread ended though. :(
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By noahmercier
#29315
I did all the welding myself, I learned from watching youtube videos and trial and error. As for the most recent update, I always planned on upgrading to a Kelly controller, just not this soon.
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By noahmercier
#29368
I ordered the Kelly controller with all the other required items a few days ago. They are supposed to come on Wednesday the 16th. I still have to order a precharge resistor though
By robnewyork
#29369
awesome !!!!!! which model ya go with?? the resistors can probably be found locally .. try to find some 8 gauge wires to lead to and from the controller for the high amperage connections , especially the motor.. also , do some really thorough studying on the wiring diagram.. its really friggen simple , except the throttle 3 wires.. mine wired up just fine , but i got it wrong 2 times before that.. the 5v + is almost always your red throttle wire.. the j2 cable is all the connections u need for running throttle ..
By robnewyork
#29370
or even cheaper if ya heave it , make some double 10 gauge strands, and shrink wrap em together, or twist em real tight
By Quinc
#29371
noahmercier wrote:I ordered the Kelly controller with all the other required items a few days ago. They are supposed to come on Wednesday the 16th. I still have to order a precharge resistor though
Image
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By noahmercier
#29387
do I need the diode and the fuse shown in the diagram?
Attachments
kelly.png
kelly.png (106.36 KiB) Viewed 2599 times
By robnewyork
#29388
ur only using the j2, and the main power will have the pre charge resistor.. the diode is single direction for protecting the j1 relay
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By noahmercier
#29390
the controller is coming today but the precharge resistor is not coming until tomorrow. I am not going to try to run it without the resistor so I don't damage the controller. I will try to wiring the throttle, brake, and everything else up to the j2 cable though so I can just add the resistor when I get it.
By robnewyork
#29391
well the resistor is just crossing the switch terminals.. so u can actually wire everything without it , since the resistor is always in a complete circuit.. its always on. even when the switch is off.
By robnewyork
#29392
you could dive into the programming menu.and you could wire up 4 dollar store 9v batteries just to test different circuits;
By robnewyork
#29393
i think u just need to 12 v on in order to program.. id set it all at the lowest settings till all is tested and working
By robnewyork
#29395
return are all common wires.. in the sense , they all go back to the same source,.. and yes, 1 can be used for the throttle/7 looks like it might be the 5v source for the red throttle wire.. 6and 10 wont be used.theres another diagram somewhere with the controller listed for hall, and i do know rtn and #7 will be uised
By robnewyork
#29397
the last picture, u are correct, these 3 should run the thottle/./ as i recall, i needed to run my signal wire to a different connection to get it to be variable
By robnewyork
#29398
to get running , you really only need picture 3... I ran a 12 v power source for the controllers motherboard power, so i could program with the main power off.
By robnewyork
#29399
now that u can see the wires, go back and look at all the all the diagrams , i had to look again when i got the controller, to see the hall configuration.
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By noahmercier
#29400
Do I still have to hook up the disconnect switch? The #1 and #2 cables look like they are an on/off switch for the controller.
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By noahmercier
#29401
one side of the contactor says positive and the other negative. Do I connect the positive battery connector to the negative contactor side?
By robnewyork
#29402
noahmercier wrote:Do I still have to hook up the disconnect switch? The #1 and #2 cables look like they are an on/off switch for the controller.
yes, the small wires only turn on the motherboard, they dont power the caps.so its powered on like a regular controller./
By robnewyork
#29403
noahmercier wrote:one side of the contactor says positive and the other negative. Do I connect the positive battery connector to the negative contactor side?
depends.. if the contactor input is for the 12 v, neg to neg post to pos.. run off 1 battery directly.. thats the EXCITE powerr
the other major connections ( 2 ) are gonna be on 1 polarity.. so if in your chosen diagram , it interupts the positive cable , then yes , both sides will be positive otherwise ur gonna hit the switch and start a serious camp fire !!!!!!!!!!!!!
By robnewyork
#29404
if you are not understanding the contactor.. do some reading.. its a powered switch.. 12 v excites the coil to move closer.. the coil is what turns on the power completing the circuit to let the battery power get to the controller. so theres a 12 v input, and a 48v in your case.. one will be pos neg, the other will be ur switch so to speak , and interrupt EITHER the pos or negagtive power to ur controller.. just like the red switch interrupted the power to the yk43.. Now you simply have 2 switches.. one to turn on red key power, the other to close the contactor which means the system is live.any small toggle can be used for the 12v excite button.. When its working u will know dam well
By robnewyork
#29405
i cant explain it better.. 12v powers the contactor coil so the coil will complete the 48v loop.. use common sense , just like when ur wiring any other controller. obviously wiring the positive of a battery terminal to a negative of a batter terminal will be bad news. you may wanna lay out the wiring circuit completed with no contactor , no pre charge , no nothing , just basic as can be.. then appproach adding the smaller elements so u keep track of what ur doing .. Because right now i can see sparks in ur future
By robnewyork
#29406
you can actually span the pre charge resistor over the contactor terminals , so in order to charge ccaps ,u just turn the switch on for a few mins before going riding.. then hit the contactor excite button to actually ride
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