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Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

By robnewyork
#29409
the contactor still needs 12 v to turn on , regardless of what its rated for.. the excite input needs 12 v to push the coils together to connec the 48v 400amp. ur not understanding the premise of the contactor
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By noahmercier
#29412
I have wired it according to the schematic I already posted.
Attachments
106_0538.JPG
106_0538.JPG (31.69 KiB) Viewed 2624 times
By robnewyork
#29413
i see the 12v wires connected, not sure i see any wires connected to the high amperage terminals.. why so many wires going to the 12v terminals?
By robnewyork
#29414
ok have diamgram pulled up..
j2 cable , line 1 pwr goes to the positive of the 12v excite end of the contactor
the other side goes to J1 main relay, although im not sure u have the j1..( theres other options
the diode spans in one direction between these 2 , from pwr to relay
positive battery out goes to one major post of the contactor, and leaves the other post to go to one side of the motor, and B+ controller terminal.
the other side of the motor then hooks to M-
By robnewyork
#29415
B- ( obviously) then wires to the negative of the battery pack.
0-5v hall throttle is right there in the diagram , and shows you which wires to connect to all of which WIRE TO J2 , AS ALWAYS
NOT GOING BACK TO THE POS SIDE OF THE BATTERY PACK , which should be mocked up tot the contactor, we throw the switch in there. AFTER THE SWITCH IS WIRED BETWEEN THE BATTERY PACK AND THE CONTACTOR, WIRE THE PRE CHARGE RESISTOR ACROSS THE MAJOR GIANT OBVIOUS CONTACTOR POLES( THE HIGH AMP HIGH VOLT CONTACTOR CONNECTIONS)
By robnewyork
#29416
AT this point , a few simple tests can be conducted. one is to turn the red switch on.. leave the contactor off. you should get some blinking light from the controller because some voltage is bypassing the contactor via the precharge resistor.. for tesing purposes only , id install a 40 amp inline fuse after the posotive battery terminal so u dont fry anying,... If a light is on test the 5 v output from the throttle , by grounding the black wire to a common ground.. then test the j2-1 cable for 11-13 volts output, this will be key to turning on the contactor..
By robnewyork
#29417
now, on the J2 -1 pwr wire , wire in a small toggle switch , anything cheap theres no amperage.. this will be ur contactor "ON " switch , and ur contactor off. Havin it sperate from the main power on and off may save some headache in the future ( like u wanna program , but dont wanna run the batteries much,,,
Anyway , now id power on everything, via turning the big red switch , to get ready, then hitting the toggle switch to excite the coil , when u hear that pop, the entire system is alive.. u will also seee part of the contactor move..Hopefully , all is done correctly , and its not a rats nest of crossed wires where u cannot see what ya did.. the first test would be to twist the throttle slowly.. if nothing happens, its time to get the laptop asnd make sure the parameters are not set to values below or above what u are running ( low voltage cutoff set at 52v , controller set at 37 max, and stupid settings like that
By robnewyork
#29418
noahmercier wrote:I have wired it according to the schematic I already posted.

the one thing right here, is that the diode does span the neg and positive terminals
By robnewyork
#29419
Once you have confirmed all the wiring and controller settings are right.. twist the throttle again.. it should spin. If not , your color codes on the throttle are weird and chinese, and you need to switch the negative and signal wires
By robnewyork
#29420
noahmercier wrote:I have wired it according to the schematic I already posted.

WHERE ARE THERE 2 WIRES COMING FROM THE POSITIVE ON THE 12 V SIDE OF THE CONTACTOR?? one goes to pWR , the neg goes to relay, and the diode is right.. whats the third wire in the right side of the pic for?
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By noahmercier
#29421
The extra wire is hooked up to the #1 pwr input on the j2 cable. If I was to follow the diagram I would just put that wire somewhere before the switch.
Attachments
Wiring Diagram 3.png
Wiring Diagram 3.png (130.87 KiB) Viewed 2619 times
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By noahmercier
#29424
Could I hook up the contactor to the big red switch so it turns on with everything else or would it ruin the whole function of it?
By robnewyork
#29425
noahmercier wrote:The extra wire is hooked up to the #1 pwr input on the j2 cable. If I was to follow the diagram I would just put that wire somewhere before the switch.
thats stiill only 2 wires to the 12 v side of the contactor.. i dont see the third
By robnewyork
#29427
if you cut off the second leg on the positive side, ditch the shunt looking thing , and ditch the fuse ( you dont need a fuse on the 12v excite end , unless u want one, you need a temp fuse on the high power side ) you should be good, and can now move onto the real high power contactor connections on the 2 giant terminals.. the pos wire that goes to the switch fuse and shunt actually goes to 12V +// why thats not connected idk
By robnewyork
#29428
im uploading a very basic diagram for the 12v side of the contactor and the wires coming from the main contacts of the contactor
By robnewyork
#29429
i know exactly what u are doing.. you are combining the wireing of the high voltage side with the low voltage side.. once u cross the mental hurdle that the contactor is a aPOWERED switch , its fairly simple to wire.Just because ur 12 v side has 4 terminals doesnt change the fact its still the 12 v side and only requires 2 wires
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By noahmercier
#29430
The third wire is so I can connect to the PWR on the J2. According to the diagram, I would normally just splice the wires somewhere in between the currently used positive output and the key switch. Where would you suggest I hook up the PWR wire?
By robnewyork
#29432
why use 2 wires to run one simple toggle switch between the PWR and the positive 12 v terminal on the contactor.. ur making ur life too hard, and over - reading the diagram , there is no third wire in the diagram.
By robnewyork
#29433
theres the diagram with all 6 connections accounted for ,make sure the diode is facing the right direction , and ur done with the contactor
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By noahmercier
#29439
Are you saying I can just hook it up like this...
Attachments
Wire Diagram R.png
Wire Diagram R.png (9.67 KiB) Viewed 2610 times
By robnewyork
#29441
ok , wire it that way, doesnt ,male sense to me , but i didnt build the controller.. im confused as to why the 12v diode feeds back to the positive 48v system.. so u are aware the 2 giant threaded terminals are connections
By robnewyork
#29442
so their wiring has everything turning on at once, mine is turning on 2 seperate switches ( which is what ive always seen , and what i did with my kelly
By robnewyork
#29444
ok , well , aside from this , its all simple going forward. I was helbent on the idea of 2 seperate systems.. but now i see they have it set up like a golf cart, one switch does all the powering.
By robnewyork
#29449
the part i dont like is the diagram is highly relaint on the diode direction , and the diode not failing
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By noahmercier
#29451
I am still going to use the big switch though because if I remove it there will be a big hole in the box.
By robnewyork
#29452
if you go with the connected systrems, the big switch powers on the entire kart , 400 amps

if u go with 2 seperate switches, u dont need a big switch for the 12v.. I dont see what ur asking .. fisrt state which way ur wiring it so i can answer in an informed fashion..
By robnewyork
#29453
all the connections to the high power end, neeed to be 8 gauge or bigger ( batteries , B+ b- M+ , the 2 major poles on the contactor , the connectiosn between each battery etc.. or like we discussed doubled up 10 ga
By robnewyork
#29454
from now on lets stick to commmon language.. high power side drives the vehicle , low power side drives the contactor coil.. High power 48v , low power 12v
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By noahmercier
#29456
robnewyork wrote:so their wiring has everything turning on at once, mine is turning on 2 seperate switches ( which is what ive always seen , and what i did with my kelly
By robnewyork
#29457
noahmercier wrote:If I go with the current wiring, don't I only need one switch?


yes , exactrly as the diagram shows.. i wasnt sure if u were doing seperate power for the contactor .. but u still need to use a massive switch , because its still turning on and connecting all the high power side
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