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Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

By robnewyork
#30108
well u can get a mini bike rear sprocket in 35 pitch , bolt it to the moounting tab and be done with the odd ball 8mm chain./. theyre very cheap also on ebay


By robnewyork
#30109
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Go-Kart-Mini-Bi ... Swal5YMeo6

seems like u have it all figured out.. My only concern, YOU WILL HAVE NO room for some kinda chain tensioner.. i think this will look insane with the imperial motor on it , but be well worth it when u tap the throttle , regardless of the gear ratio,. we had the same motor geared 18-32 on a razor kart with a yk43 b.. thought it wouldnt move at all with those gears, and it did 25mph nice and smooth..NO issue.
User avatar
By zogthegreat
#30111
robnewyork wrote:My only concern, YOU WILL HAVE NO room for some kinda chain tensioner..
I am thinking that I will have to fabricate a extension for the rear swing arm, around 6" maybe. Although it might be easier to rebuild the swing arm. I'll wait for the motor to arrive, (herein referred to as "The Beast"!), before making any plans. I am concerned about having the weight balanced. With the 1000w Unite in the back and 4 18ah batteries in the front, I wasn't to concerned about it. With "The Beast" in the back, I might be riding a two wheeler instead of a quad! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Here are my thoughts for the gearing. For when I need lots of torque, I'll go 12/72:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRITAN-35BS12H- ... SwNRdX5GPq

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sprocket-72-Too ... SN&vxp=mtr

I prefer this 72 tooth sprocket to the one that you recommended because the holes match my axle setup. If you think that the one that you linked is better, please let me know and I'll go with that.

For speed, I'll go 18/32 if you can point me to a 32 tooth sprocket. I found a 18 tooth here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18T-Tooth-35-Sp ... KF&vxp=mtr

Otherwise I'll go 18/55 with the existing 55 tooth sprocket that I have. Eventually, I'll probably have to different chains to make things easier. I'll use this sprocket:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Roll ... Pu&vxp=mtr

for the "chain loop" so that I can use a tensioner.
By robnewyork
#30114
dont do 18-32 , the wheel size is wayy different, 18-55 is as light as u will nee d to go , and the top speed will be really good.. havent done the math yet.. but i think ur running a 2100 rpm motor thats 36v on 48v?? all else looks good.. i think the 12/72 gearing will just be plain bonkers @@@@@@@@@@ real world mudding
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By zogthegreat
#30124
OK, I found the spec sheet for the motor:

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According to this, the motor rotates in a clockwise direction. Can it be run counterclockwise, (i.e. reversing the pos & neg leads), without damaging the motor? It wouldn't be that much trouble to mount it on the other side of the frame, especially since I'm planning to rebuild the rear swing arm.

9.25" in length, 7.86" in height?!?! robnewyork, this thing is massive!!!

BTW, do you think that 1/8" steel plate will be strong enough or should I go with 1/4"? I will put support braces no mater what. Depending on if there are screw holes in the back end. I might even do a rear support.
By robnewyork
#30125
hahaaha, if you have 1/4 inch plate , id go thaT ROUTE.. yes, you can run it both directions no issue at all, and yes its a friggen moster.. better start doing deadlifts now.
By robnewyork
#30140
pretty simple of the controller trips the contactor to switch polarity.. i guess it just wires both ways, 2 wires in 2 out for forward , then 2 alternate wires to reverse it.
By Laundrydude
#30142
Thats a cool relay. 2 coils. Looks like the motor will be braking when not energized. The coil on time is a max of 15 minutes. Looking at the specs im not sure its suitable for your project. Manual on their website.
http://www.northerntool.com/images/down ... /27328.pdf
What about a heavy toggle switch to reverse like https://www.mcmaster.com/#8001k32/=16n7xx6
You wont need to switch while under load, just carry high amperage.
User avatar
By zogthegreat
#30147
robnewyork wrote:this would be fun , like a power wheels


http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIRECT-MOTOR-CO ... SweXhXl289
I like this idae. It would save me cash, (apparently I would still need a $20.00 rocker switch to activate the forward/reverse). I was hoping to find something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-Amp-Drum-Swi ... 2284759170

Having a "shifter lever" would look cool! However, I can only find 60a max. :( With the one that you found, I could remove it from the case and do a custom "dash mount". I'm already planing to do some fiberglass work to hold the ammeter/voltage meter and head lights, so this would be a cool, yet functional add-on. :D
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By zogthegreat
#30164
Laundrydude wrote:For high amp what about a knife switch like http://m.ebay.com/itm/170881623181?_mwBanner=1
This one 100 amp, but you can get a 250 or 400 and it has a cool shifter look.
Yeah, that one I like. BTW, is there any way I can run a 15 x 6.50-6 tire with out changing the rims? Something like this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HI-RUN-Tire- ... 3=&veh=sem

I would like to put them on the rear. I was thinking maybe a piece of pvc pipe in the middle of the rim to act as a spacer. I was looking at these:

https://www.zoro.com/hi-run-lawngarden- ... oCiw7w_wcB

but I think that they would give a rough ride.
By robnewyork
#30166
i bet a lot of those tires would work , since razor did not design its own tire.. ( thats millions of dollars) they simply took an existing tire size and made a rim
By robnewyork
#30167
Im guesssing 13 is overall height, 5 is the overall wall ( 2.5 inch wall all the way around) and 6 is width... So based on that, the rim registration on the wall to seal the bead is only 8 inches tall and 6 inches wide.. So you would need to find a 15-7-6 or something odd.
User avatar
By zogthegreat
#30175
HOLY FRAKING SHITE!!!!

and I say again

HOLY FRAKING SHITE!!!!

OK, any one who has been on the forum knows that robnewyork's sanity is questionable.

But seriously rob, what have you gotten me into?!?!?!?

Once again

HOLY FRAKING SHITE!!!!

So, yeah, my motor came today. Now robnewyork had mention that it was "a friggen beast", but I think that he understated it a bit!

Here's the motor next to a 1000w Unite:

Image

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The fraking stator is bigger than a 1000w Unite!

Image

No electric fan in the back, but the front has blades to push air for cooling:

Image

HOLY FRAKING SHITE!!!!

Forget pulling golf carts! I think I'll be able to pull a semi!

Rob, when is the last time you had a psych eval? :lol: :lol: :lol:

HOLY FRAKING SHITE!!!!
#30181
robnewyork wrote:LMFAO, had that same motor on my ground force and dune buggy, lots of fun.. and ill say this, that impeller moves serious air when you get the rpms up!!!!!!congrats,,. this is gonna look car show awesome
What voltage were you running it at and how long of a run time did you get?

I'm seriously thinking of adding 2 more batteries, for a total of 72v 18ah. With the way that I'm doing the frame, I can fit them in with no problem. The Kelly KDZ48200 manual states:

"Configurable battery voltage range, B+. Max operating range: 8V to 136V"

So the controller can handle the volts. What do you think? It would give me a longer run time, (although, to be honest, I think I might need the extra weight in the front to balance this thing and keep me from riding with my front wheels in the air! :lol: :lol: :lol: ).
#30186
well with 72 max, 6 might not work since fully charged they would be roughly 78 v.. check inside the programming to see if you can set the max to 80/./ But sure, go to 60.. the run time is still dictated by amp draw from the motor , and As i recall the lesson sucked more juice than this imperial.. Partly because once the imperial gets rolling its barely doing any work to keep 300lbs moving.check and see of you can set the max amps to 66, if so ur good to go.. that would be 3500 rpm
#30192
robnewyork wrote:well with 72 max, 6 might not work since fully charged they would be roughly 78 v.. check inside the programming to see if you can set the max to 80/./ But sure, go to 60.. the run time is still dictated by amp draw from the motor , and As i recall the lesson sucked more juice than this imperial.. Partly because once the imperial gets rolling its barely doing any work to keep 300lbs moving.check and see of you can set the max amps to 66, if so ur good to go.. that would be 3500 rpm
No, the max voltage in the programming is 60v:

Image

Which is strange, because the manual says that it will support up to 136v
robnewyork wrote:the kelly itself is soo efficient with the 40% staerting amperage, i think u will be surprised at the run time..BUTTT, more voltage decreases runtime, not INcreses..
Refresh my memory please, then why do eBikes, etc like to run at 72v +? More amps?
#30221
OK, I got some work done on the frame today. I'm mounting the batteries in a straight line like this:

Image

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I cut off the seat mounting bar and the seat post. I used the seat bar to extend the back bar and give me enough space to have 4 batteries in a row. I then rebuilt the seat post around the batteries:

Image

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The local metal shop only had 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" stock instead of the original 1 1/2" x 3/4" so I went ahead and used that instead of hunting around for the original size:

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I'll trim down the seat bar when I finish the rear suspension and I know where the seat will be.

I was going to cut some new pivot mounts, but then I decided that I had done a fairly clean job of cutting off the old ones, so I cleaned them up and welded them back on:

Image

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I cleaned up the metal and then sprayed it with primer to protect everything from rusting. It's already getting humid here in central Florid, although the locals are telling me "it ain't bad yet!" :o

Image

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I should be able to do the motor mount and battery tray tomorrow and maybe part of the new rear suspension.
#30242
robnewyork wrote:hahahahaa, it will look like one of those drag racing quads i always see on youtube.. Wish i was there to help
Err, thanks, but I think that it will be dangerous enough! ;) :lol:
Laundrydude wrote:That looks like fun, and looks awesome, good work man.
Thanks!
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