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#30270
I got some work done on the motor mount toady. I started by removing the face cover on the motor, scanning it and then printing it in grayscale. This gave me a template to glue to the metal so that all of my holes would be in the right place. I noticed that the 2 case screws that hold the unit together were stripped, so I drilled those out also. I'll run a piece of threaded rod through. this will hold the case together and give some additional support for the mount:

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The shop where I've been getting my metal from is backed up and they didn't have time to cut me a 9" x 20" piece of 1/4' steel. They gave me a piece of 8" x 20" from the scrap pile for free! However, it you look at the top of the picture, it's about a 1/4" short:

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Since this part is not for support, I built up the top tip with my welder:

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This motor is to massive for a face plate support alone, so I made a set of support brackets for the motor to sit on. These actually were a lot of work to get the curve and height right :

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I put the motor down on top of the brackets in order to get everything lined up and then tacked them into place.

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Then I lifted the motor off and properly welded the brackets in place, (well, what passes for "properly welded with me! :oops: ).

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This took about 5 hours in total. But I think that as far as the mount goes, this was the hardest part. Hopefully I can finish the mount tomorrow before it starts raining.


#30377
robnewyork wrote:i think i see now, u hollowed out the back plate for more ventilation , if soo , it looks friggen sick.. just needs some flashy paint.
Actually, that's stock. There is a cover that goes over that part, I'll post a picture later, (waiting for a appointment at the VA right now). I have the stator removed so that the body is easier to move around.

I'm back to thinking about 2 more batteries, but having 2 x 36v packs. I was looking at the motor last night and it occurred to me that this is the equivalent of a large block V8 vs a 4 cylinder! My milage is going to suck! Running @ 36v 36ah would give me a lot more range. My thoughts are I could have a switch that would allow me to switch over to 48v when I need more power. My worry is that the batteries might not like such a setup.
#30378
For now , id run the 48v 18ah for a while .. Until u get the other real issues sorted.. Run time is not an issue yet, becasue its really hard to predict with the kelly soft start efficiency what the mileage will be.. IM betting now its wayyy longer run time than ur predicting.
#30379
yes its like a big block V8 in a bug, but ur running a small 2 barrel carb with the kelly, its really quite efficient.. and where u generally use all ur battery life is take off, but since the kelly limits the take off amps, ur really gaining a lot of run time
#30446
So, I've been sick with what I guess is the Black Death! Right now I can be up for about 20 - 30 minutes then I have to be back in bed for about 3 - 4 hours! I'm slowly getting back on my feet and I've been able to get some work done over the last few days.

I got started on the rear suspension. I cut apart the old suspension and salvaged the axle and pivot tubes:

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I laid everything out to see how much space I would need for the new swing arm, turned out to be 20":

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I couldn't find 1" round tube, (pipe yes, tube, no), so I went with 1" square tube. I took to pieces and clamped them together so that everything would be as equal as possible:

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Then I welded the new bottom tubes to the original axle and pivot tubes:

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For the upper tubes, I used a protractor to measure the angle of the original, (15°), and cut and bent the new tube to match. Then I added cross supports to strengthen everything:

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I took 2 pieces of 1/16" sheet metal for the mount. Once again, I clamped them together before drilling and cutting so that the slots would line up equally. Then I started with the bottom, first welding it in place:

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Since I'm going to use 1" spacers to keep the metal from compressing when I bolt on the motor, I made some guides with some threaded rod to keep the spacers from moving around inside the mount:

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To weld in the top, I bolted the top on corner to corner:

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Then I welded it all together:

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Even though I still have to do the shock mount, I hit everything with primer, just in case I relapse and end up back in bed:

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Speaking of bed....
#30450
OFFROADSCOOT wrote:Nice build! I'm looking forward to seeing how this develops! I'm from FL as well and I remember seeing this exact QUAD on CL! I almost bought it but had other bikes I was working on at the time. I'll be following!
Where are you at? I'm in Lake Wales until the end of April, then I'm going back north until next November.
#30475
robnewyork wrote:wow zog, looking awesome.. this is gonna be a seriously mean looking dirt quad! and the sturdiest dirt quad ever made ( probably has to be carrying a 50 lb motor and 100 lbs of batteries
LOL, yeah, I'm thinking my time at Ft. Knox had an effect on me, I'm building this thing like a tank! :lol: :lol: :lol:

But, as you said, giving all the weight that it has to support, I decided to go for solid vs light. The nice thing is that I can pull apart the rear suspension and pack the whole thing into the trunk of my car, so I won't have to make a special mount to carry it on the back of my rig.
OFFROADSCOOT wrote:I'm in Melbourne. I go to shooting tournaments regularly at Universal Shooting Academy in Frostproof which is about half-hour south of Lake Wales. My scooters get a workout there!
Are you going to the Florida Flywheelers next November? I was told that I can bring the Beast and ride on it there, apparently they encourage strange and unusual contraptions!
Last edited by zogthegreat on Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#30479
So I got the battery box done today, along with the brake caliper mount and the shock mount:

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I designed the shock mount so that my Kelly controller would fit behind it, mounted on the back fo the battery box. Although it looks tight in this pic, there is actually plenty of space for it.

I should be able to do the seat mount and handle bars tomorrow!

Slowly but surely getting there! :D
#30524
zogthegreat wrote: Are you going to the Florida Flywheelers next November? I was told that I can bring the Beast and ride on it there, apparently they encourage strange and unusual contraptions!
Haven't heard of it but I'll check it out! Any info online? I'll google it.
#30534
Oops!

So, yeah, I got a case of the stupids today!

I'm working on a picnic table outside my home and I don't have a lot of space so I have things stacked here and there. Since I didn't want to move my tires, batteries and a bunch of other stuff, I had the bright idea to cover them with a blue plastic tarp to "protect them" from any wayward sparks from welding. As it turns out, the tarp itself is very flamable and it caught on fire!

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There wasn't any real damage, however I now have blue melted plastic on my new tires and batteries! The top of a battery also melted, but the battery is fine. The seat also got a hole melted into it, which is disappointing, since it was in such nice condition.

Dumb, dumb, dumb! :oops:

(Must be the heat, yeah that's it! ;) )
#30536
Yeah, the tires fit, their 15x6.00-6's. I had ordered some 13x5.00-6 's, but they were actually smaller than the stock tires. I decided to take a chance with the 15's and I'm pretty happy with them. :D I was thinking to order another set for the front, but I kind of like the way it looks with the smaller front tires:

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I actually finished the build today, I'll start painting tomorrow:

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#30537
So the last part of the build was the handle bars. Raising the seat meant that I needed to raise the height of the handle bars so that I wasn't bent over 90° when riding! M8 rod, (8mm), isn't that common, however, it's just slightly smaller than 5/16th. I "rethreaded" the original holes by attaching to nuts to the 5/16th rod and using a socket and ratchet to force them through. I worked really nicely and I'm able to remove the rods if I need. I then measured out a 3" height adjustment to match the higher seat:

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Since I wanted to be able to remove the rods if necessary, I took some 1/2" square tube and cut into rough size. Then I clamped them together and trimmed them so that the were all perfectly equal:

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I welded 1/32" steel plate to the square tubes and a peice on the top to finish it off:

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Wow, that was more work than I was planning! Plus it hit 90° today! Anyway, I'll start painting and assembly tomorrow and I should have it wired and on the road this weekend! :D :D :D
#30540
it looks incredible ! this is how razor should design an adult model.. Love the huge rear tires and the rake it gives the overall appearance.. This is certainly one of the most extreme builds ever to happen on the forum , congrats
#30543
Super SIze me!!!!! The big tires fit perfect! It lives up to its name...BEAST! I like it naked without the plastic, you can see all the work you put into it. Only thing I would add would be some provision for storage, but it looks like you could easily put a hitch on it for a trailer if you wanted to use it to haul stuff.
#30571
OK, I don't know if it's the heat, humidity or the position of Mars and Mercury with Taurus in ascension, (I have a friend how thinks the position of a star 65 light years away affects her daily life! :lol: :lol: :lol: ), but I have never had so much trouble with fraking paint!!!! No matter what I did, I ended up with tiger stripes, orange peel, runs, sags, you name it, I got it! I managed to get something decent after repeated resandings and repaintings, but I'll probably repaint when I get up north.

For the frame, I'm using Rustoleum Hammered black:

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It goes on thick and is really good for covering up, (ahem), "manufacturing defects", (i.e. the crappy looking welds from my crappy welder! :oops: ). It's supposed to be black, but the color is more of a gray/black. For accent pieces, I'm using Dupli-color "GM Garnet Red" from AutoZone and for screws, nuts, etc, I'm using epoxy black. Well, the can says that it's epoxy black, but since it's not a two stage paint, I'm pretty sure that it's not a true epoxy paint.

I painted the batteries to match the frame. This covers up the melt damage from my little fire and blends the batteries into the general scheme:

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A small detail, but IMO important, is that I installed a small piece of 1/4" fule line on the back support of the motor mount . This will act as a bumper to prevent damage to the motor casing when I hit a bump:

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I also drilled an "access hole" so that I can and the lock nut for the lower mount hole more easily.

Next, I went to work on the controller. I took it apart and painted it GM Garnet Red:

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I still work on computers, (more than I want, but...), so I have thermal paste laying around. After painting, I cleaned the interior of the controller case and applied Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 thermal paste to the bottom of the controller internals:

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I then reassembled the controller and resealed it with some black silicone sealant:

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I popped it on to the back of the quad. Even though the paint needs to be redone, I think that it looks pretty good. The red has a nice contrast to the gray/black of the Hammered paint:

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#30591
OK, I'll admit it, I really didn't plan out my wiring as well as I could have. I did all right with the handle bar, I popped in a grommet to run the throttle wires in through the front. I can use this later for when I install some lights. I drilled out and installed another grommet in the bottom for all the other wires that I needed up front:

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Since I have a 48v system, a standard DC to DC step down converter based on the LM2596 chip wouldn't work, they are only good up to 36v. So I used a converter based on the LM317 chip, which can handle up to 63v input. I covered it in heat shrink tube to prevent any shorts:

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I used bus connectors to connect my wires, this way if I need to change anything, I don't have to mess around with desoldering:

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I'm not happy with the cover. I made it with some galvanized sheet metal. I'll either redo it in fiberglass this summer or ask my son to 3D print me something:

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The main wiring is were you really see my lack of planning. I was originally going to pass the wires inside the back of the "battery bay", but there really wasn't enough room. So I drilled holes in the frame and installed grommets. I had the wire loom in one of my boxes and I used that to give it a cleaner appearance:

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I ordered a cover for the open aviation plug, I should have a VGA/DB9 cover that I can use to weather proof the serial plug:

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So all that I have left now is the brakes and the chain. I should have it on the road tomorrow! :D :D :D
#30593
let me say it looks great , all the wiring.. very heavy duty and durable , which its gonna need to be.. Have u spun the motor with the controller on to make sure it works>>> dont forget , u have an aux 12 v source from the J1 cable i think.. My sole concern is the front switch to turn on the meter, thats not carrying any real current is it?? doesnt appear to be , It looks like the high power all runs through the big cutoff down on the bateries
#30594
let me say it looks great , all the wiring.. very heavy duty and durable , which its gonna need to be.. Have u spun the motor with the controller on to make sure it works>>> dont forget , u have an aux 12 v source from the J1 cable i think.. My sole concern is the front switch to turn on the meter, thats not carrying any real current is it?? doesnt appear to be , It looks like the high power all runs through the big cutoff down on the bateries
#30596
robnewyork wrote:let me say it looks great , all the wiring.. very heavy duty and durable , which its gonna need to be.. Have u spun the motor with the controller on to make sure it works>>> dont forget , u have an aux 12 v source from the J1 cable i think.. My sole concern is the front switch to turn on the meter, thats not carrying any real current is it?? doesnt appear to be , It looks like the high power all runs through the big cutoff down on the bateries
I ran 8 gauge wire for the batteries, controller and motor, (that's why there was no space to run the wires through the back).

I did spin up the motor, seems real smooth, I can't wait to try it out!

I actually have two DC to DC converters in there. The first on takes the 48v and drops it down to 12v. Then I have a wire running to the switch and from the switch to a standard LM2596 DC to DC converter, which is also running 12v. This way, when I turn off the switch, the 2nd converter loses power. From there I have the orange power wire for the controller hooked up, as well as the meter. When the 2nd converter loses power, the controller is cut off. I'll use this connection to hook up lights in the future.
#30617
IT LIVES!!! MY CREATURE, IT LIVES!!! Bwhahahaha!!!!

OK, I got the controller straightened out and all I have to say is HOLY SHITE!!! This thing has some scary fracking power!!!

I finished getting the brakes painted and mounted:

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Although I'm happy with how they look, I'm not happy with their stopping power. the cable is just to long, with to many turns. When I get up north, I'll order some hydraulics. I found these on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-BL-M445 ... SwzaJX2X0m

I also might look at modifying the front hubs to mount disc brakes up there.

It's hard to see, but the insides of the disk have been painted black. It's a small detail, but I like how it looks vs straight red.

Now, of course, the center piece of the build. Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls of all ages, I present to you, The Beast!

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I kept the red with black accents. I forgot to take a picture, but the impeller fan is painted red, this way when you look down into the motor, you don't see aluminum.

Here it is, mostly assembled, (I still have some wiring to finish up):

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Thus far, I'm mostly happy. I need to find a better shock, the top column is bottoming out on the motor! It's also really nasty in turns. Even on straight ways, the short wheel base really has a squirrely feel to it. I might look at widening the rear axel.

But boy, does this thing move!
#30619
Video will be coming next week when my son gets here.

I was trying to get a top speed when my drive sprocket popped off! Seems that I forgot to tighten it properly! :oops: :oops:
Right now I have it set up 12/72 @ 2800 rpm. Based on the calculator, it should be around 20 mph. I do have a another 20 tooth motor sprocket. That should bump things up to around 34 - 35 mph! You know, if life is seeming bleak and I think that there is no point in going on! Because on this thing, that kind of speed would really be suicidal! :o

I went with #35 chain.
#30631
OFFROADSCOOT wrote:Terrific execution! That motor looks like it belongs on that frame. I bet it has some pulling power.
Thanks! :D Yeah, I actually need to do some tweaking with the controller. Give it 1/8 turn of the throttle and it takes off like a rocket! I really need to tweak it and smooth it out.

BTW, robnewyork, I have this knife switch:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170881623181

Do you have any suggestions on setting it up for forward/reverse?

I'm thinking of redoing the rear mono shock. I really don't like how the upper frame contacts with the motor. I know that the motor case can handle it, it's 1/4" steel! But I don't like having a poor design. I'm thinking dual rear shocks, mounted behind the motor, something like this:

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I have a second 7" shock, although I might go with something bigger, maybe for a motocross or even a motorcycle.
OFFROADSCOOT wrote:Super SIze me!!!!! The big tires fit perfect! It lives up to its name...BEAST! I like it naked without the plastic, you can see all the work you put into it.
Yeah, I like the exposed frame also, however, a recent thunderstorm has me thinking some kind of mud flaps are going to be necessary. I'll see what I can think of when I get up north and I can use my son's workshop, (he does a lot of fiberglass work for his Star Wars costumes).
#30632
yep,, id just add a second shock , should be good to go with double the load force.. Anyway,a s far as the forward recerse knife.. You would need the switch near you , but the heavy duty motor leads coming back up to the switch , and back to the motor/ All its doing is is reversing the polarity the simplest way possible , Literally switching the wires to the motor.. SO now ur running neg to neg and pos to pos lets saay.. when u flip the knife switch , its running neg to pos and pos to neg, making the motor spin backwards reversing the quad.. Id get 10 feet of 10 gauge wire.. and draw urself a diagram before starting.. But its truly simple.
#30633
Ha!! That's so awesome, you even have reverse gear!

Maybe do some splash shields with clear plexiglass or lexan like the car show guys do? You might be able to shape and mold it using a heat gun. I think its really interesting to see the internal workings of how cleanly you wired it up and the custom fabrication you did.

I've never seen a dual shock setup inline like that. Wouldn't one shock need to be a little shorter than the other since they mount on different points on the swingarm? If you have room you might be better with a side by side setup where they can share the same mounting point. Or just get a stiffer rate spring/shock to avoid bottoming out on the motor.
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