Use this area as your personal project pages or blog! Each thread belongs to one user as a project page!

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

By army5
#3498
Well, I'm almost all but finished with my project. I did a quick and dirty hookup of the electrical to see how it works. This thing is awesome. I'm going to clean up the wires a bit, replace the deck and seat and...oh yeah....hook the breaks back up :o . I will post pics and a vid once I have everything together for a nice clean look. BTW, I did this with the intention of no welding since I didn't own a welder and wanted to avoid the cost of buying one (more money for scooter parts :mrgreen: ). This is my first mod and things went pretty well. Only had to make a couple of extra trips to hardware store and one extra order to tnc for a chain breaker, connectors and 40 amp DC circuit breaker that I forgot on original order. I'll go ahead and list the parts for those interested.

- 750W Motor - 36 Volts with Mounting Bracket (Style: MY1020-B)
- 48V Controller (Model LB37) Yi-Yun Brand Controller
- (4) 9ah SLA's
- Twist Throttle Cable with 48 Volt LED Meter
- 48 Volt INLINE Charger FAN COOLED!
- INLINE Charging Port (3 Pin)
- 40 Amp DC Circuit Breaker
- #25 Chain (70 Links)
- Chain Breaker Tool For #25 and 8mm (T8F) Chain
- Various connectors

To my knowledge I think this is my complete list (minus a 13tooth motor sprocket, 65 and 85 tooth rear sprocket). Speaking of, what can I expect by changing the sprockets? I have a pretty steep inclined hill on the way to my sisters house. The stock sprockets have no problem climbing this hill with my 210lbs frame.

Jeff


User avatar
By ElectricRay
#3507
Yes, do post pictures and videos when your are done. I am especially interested to see how you mount the motor and the battery placement.
By army5
#3511
I went with a top mount approach for the motor so I didn't have to worry about cutting and moving kickstand. I aligned new motor sprocket with rear wheel spocket and drilled new holes on frame. An issue you will have is the chain not clearing the crossbar on the frame. This is why the motor is sitting up higher on spacers to clear this. I did not want to cut the crossbar and sacrifice strenght. Once fastened down with bolts, washers and nuts this thing is rock solid. For the batteries I bought a small stell plate and cut it with a jigsaw and used some brackets from the framing section of the hardware store to help keep the batteries in place. The bungy is for added support. The makeshift box is attached to the existing frame above the rear wheel. As you can see from the pic, the plate is already bending. I think I need to move the plate forward since the force of acceleration places most of the load on the back end of the plate. I also think I could have made this with thicker plates that are in the same section of the hardware store as the brackets. This would eliminate the need for the jigsaw.
Attachments
IMG_0348.JPG
Motor & Battery
IMG_0348.JPG (297.17 KiB) Viewed 3919 times
User avatar
By shortcircuit911
#3519
Cool man. Have you checked Structural integrity of your motor mount under load? If that is your permanent solution I would suggest that you at least run grade 8 bolts. Your setup looks like it will flex under load because of the length of the fasteners you are using. You are right about the frame loosing strength when it is cut to mount an my1020 on top of the frame, but that can be fixed with gussets. I'm not trying to belittle your work, I'm just trying to point out a few things that may give you problems down the road. Congratulations on the mod.
By army5
#3523
I have not checked the motor mount under load and honestly didn't pay attention to the bolts I bought at the hardware store. Can flex be checked without a rider with the rear wheel jacked up off the ground?

Below are some more pics including the "almost" finished product. Still need to reattach breaks and strengthen the battery box. It works for now and I have it on the charger. I have a Garmin GPS that I am going to use to get some speed readings.

Obviously I had to cut the deck with the new top mounted motor. I also had to cut (with jigsaw) notches on the seat deck and grind just a bit (maybe an 1/8") on the motor mount and seat shaft to get the bolt holes to lineup. Wife wanted the seat but if you can live without it, I still believe this project could be done with as little of tools as screw drivers, drill and drill bits, wrenches and/or socket set, wire stripper, wire crimpers and a cheap hand saw to cut the deck.

So far I've been very pleased. I know it's not stock looking but wasn't concerned about that. I wanted it to be clean, reliable and most of all fun. Reliability will be an ongoing test but I think I've achieved the other two.
Attachments
010.JPG
010.JPG (364.78 KiB) Viewed 3911 times
008.JPG
008.JPG (319.63 KiB) Viewed 3911 times
007.JPG
007.JPG (274.23 KiB) Viewed 3911 times
User avatar
By shortcircuit911
#3530
You would have to put a load on the rear wheel while it it off the ground. You could just sit on the scooter and look at the movement of the motor while it is under load. I would find a small inclince and hammer on the throttle while looking at the motor. If you see the mount flex then you have an issue. If you got the bolts at the hardware store there is a chance that they are grade 5 instead of grade 8.
By army5
#3533
Took the scooter out after a full charge. From my vantage point (sitting on the seat hitting the throttle up an incline) I did not notice any flex in the mount. Hopefully I won't have any problems. If I do, maybe it will be only one bolt at which maybe it will throw the chain before anything worse can happen.

Pulled out the GPS and went down a straight flat stretch and hit 23mph. I would say pretty good for original gearing and 210lbs. rider. I have a 65 and 80 tooth rear gear that I may try out later to see what I can get it to top out at.
User avatar
By bassiclyLouDog
#3540
nice job! You could add a mount to the frame that you can bolt through the face of the motor. The are 3 holes on the motor that can be used. I ran 5 batteries and 2 motors. I put the 7ah batteries in a cooler bag and kept the fender on the wheel. I ratcheted the batteries to that.
By army5
#3542
Ok, I've got a question I've been itching to ask. I actually bought 5 batteries with the thought of possibly going to 60 volt. Can the motor handle it? It's a bit more than the 1.5x but less than the 2x. I have to make an order to tnc for a small part and was considering their 60 volt controller (HK-60) and charger.
By army5
#3548
Ok, it was getting late last night while watching the Thunder game and as I usually do was browsing through this site doign some more reading. I'm still interested to know if my motor will handle 60 volts. I'm one that always wants more (kinda like when I pulled my 350 out of my '88 chevy and built a 383 stump puller with. Oh and that wasn't enough, had to have nitrous :o). So I know I will be looking to push it further. I've now topped the 20mph barrier. Next will probably be 30 and then who knows from there. Hopefully some common sense will set in before I could seriously injure myself, but I'm 33 and it hasn't yet :lol: .

I've got a 13 tooth sprocket that I am going to swap out for the 11 tooth to see what changes it makes. I will get a full charge and pull the GPS out again and do another speed run.
By army5
#3549
BTW, this project is more of a test as my son has a razor dune buggy that he wants faster. His cousin has a ground force that is clearly faster on the street and he doesn't like that. If this setup proves reliable I am going to put the this same package in his dune buggy.
User avatar
By bassiclyLouDog
#3558
As long as you don't bog it down a lot on hills and in dirt it should run great on 60v. I ran 60v on a 36v 650 and on 2 24v 250watt motors. Check out my vids....
I run the dirtbike hard in the mud all the time. The controller shuts down and the motor gets really hot, but it still runs. I'll let you know when it finally dies. My 2nd 650watt is actually 3mph slower because it's older. it also heats up quicker and smells faintly like hot metal. All things wear out over time.
#1 don't run wide open throttle all the time, it just burns up battery life and causes heat.
#2 starting from a dead stop and not letting the motor wind up causes heat build up.
#3 coast a lot, keep it at 3/4 throttle, and get a cooling fan.
By army5
#3648
Well, I got bitten by the speed bug. I decided to go ahead and hook up the 5th battery and 13 tooth motor sprocket. Did another speed run and hit 30mph. I think there is another couple of mph's since the road has a slight incline for a block and a half. Once I went over the small hump it almost immediately went from 28 to 30. Had to shut it down since I was coming to the end of the road and the current brake setup is weak for this speed. Not sure if the 48 volt controller is restricting current or not. Anybody know if a bit more speed can be squeezed if I go up to the 60 volt controller?
Attachments
IMG_0094.JPG
IMG_0094.JPG (308.35 KiB) Viewed 3829 times
User avatar
By bassiclyLouDog
#3661
That's awesome! dropping back down to the stock sprocket should get me 5mph gain. I like the torque though. it's like a catapault throwing me 20mph at a time. I'm glad you had sucess. looks like a fairly easy and stable mod. your motor mount is pretty crazy. You could go bottom mount? Could you link the chain around the bar? hey if it works it works.
30mph is my dream speed on my dirt bike....would be real scary on my 300. I'd definately wear more than a helmet!
long long title how many chars? lets see 123 ok more? yes 60

We have created lots of YouTube videos just so you can achieve [...]

Another post test yes yes yes or no, maybe ni? :-/

The best flat phpBB theme around. Period. Fine craftmanship and [...]

Do you need a super MOD? Well here it is. chew on this

All you need is right here. Content tag, SEO, listing, Pizza and spaghetti [...]

Lasagna on me this time ok? I got plenty of cash

this should be fantastic. but what about links,images, bbcodes etc etc? [...]