Need new motors? break a chain? brakes not work? swapping out pinions or sprockets?

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

By rhyoo
#30889
So this morning was supposed to be a beautiful and fun day for me. I took my s1000 that I just completed and gave it a ride. I rode through the flat, doing 25mph, and with full throttle it took the steep hill without any significant speed lost, it kept climbing the hill like it was nothing. then seconds later suddenly it stops. I touch the battery and it's fine, the voltage reading also showing that it's healthy. Then when I touch the motor it was hot and I could smell something burning of it :( . the controller is mini yk43b.
Once I got home I test it with 36v 800 motor and sure enough it works.
Why this is happen? I thought currie 36v 1000 watt should be able to handle 50amp from mini yk43b? or this is a faulty controller? I'm not sure 100% but when the scoot stopped working I saw a little smoke from under the deck, I'm not sure if this coming from controller itself or burning electrical tape, xt-90 connector, etc. But it feels warm on the xt-90 connector....does it mean that xt-90 connector couldn't handle the amp from controller? the specs on xt-90 says that it should be able to handle 50amp.
What kind of motor replacement do you guys think should I go for? This is a sad day for me for sure because the scooter was running great, fast, and very smooth.
Here's the glorious shot before the fall....
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By robnewyork
#30890
dam, thats odd.,. the 900 watt and 1000 watt currie designs usuaully handle the real YK43b no issue , never mind the mini.. I wish there was a way to test ( anmeter) THE OUTPUT OF THE CONTROLLER WHILE on a hill..Could have been the gearhead on the motor seizing up causing the motor to fry.. additional drag// or the controller could be deefective and cranking out 200 amps ..the setup looks incredible.. I dont know what motor to suggest bc i dont know what happened// id try to find a used currie , 450 watt to 900 watt on ebay and test it. so mounting is still easy
By Riverie
#30891
Rob,

The set up is great actually, I'm getting better soldering, wiring, having a proper tool and connector, which makes everything looks neat and clean. I managed to install rear tail lights, front led light, and under the deck light wired parrarel into small 12v 1.3A sla that I can hide inside the small front compartment inside the deck. I convert original on off switch for the lights, and original charger port to charge the small sla. That's why I'm so sad because everything was done tastefully and perfect to me.
I think you're right, everything was working fine until I hit that very steep hill with full throttle.

Rio
By robnewyork
#30892
well either way, the controller should be regulating the amperage to about 50-55 .. so if its not , theres a problem. But , even with the regular yk43b , the motor frying is really weird. another member here is running the swhinn scooter here with a 900 watt currie , the real yk43b, and taking 20 mile trips hauling 400 lbs and his motor is fine . ( yes 400 lbs total
By david coffin
#30893
sounds like me! people love my rat e-scooter. my battery life got short unexpectedly, i figure one of them has gone bad and was draining current off the others, shortening my ride. hah.
By rhyoo
#30896
pleae let me know if you find something that can replace this Rob, hopefully something come up. I will also post at wtb thread just in case someone willing to let apart.
By rhyoo
#30901
there's one guy selling his schwinn s500 for $50 on coney island Rob. Do you think the rear wheel setup will interchangeable with s1000?
By rhyoo
#30903
thanks for the link on that original s1000 motor. Pricey for sure, but worse case scenario there's still a way out that way. The more I think about the motor failure the more I think my mini yk43b causing the problem. Further research I found there's another guy here frying his motor although it was his 3 years old kid riding the thing.
By robnewyork
#30904
i know.. Im starting to think the same thing.. Maybe there is something wrong with these new mini yk43b.. thats 2 motors in 1 week. any ideas on how to mount a new motor?? can u pull the 1000 watt motor off that gear box so we can see what it attaches to ?? might make things easier as far as swapping the motor , and not the entire gearbox
By robnewyork
#30905
im trying to think of alternate 50 amp controllers aside from kelly that are dependable , but kelly might be the best bet.. theyre soo easy to set up and program for riding needs, just need to plug to ur laptop
By rhyoo
#30907
yes Rob, this thing bugging me and I'm 99% sure it's the controller issue. I remember now I went from 4.2v on my lipo voltage down to 4.0 in less than a half mile. That number is just doesn't make sense. I swear once I found the motor replacement, I will install fuse and ammeter...It's just too painful to my eyes and wallet.
Last edited by rhyoo on Tue May 16, 2017 7:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By rhyoo
#30908
How much is this kelly controller? I found another cheap controller board with 60A output, but the biggest draw is that the controller using a potentiometer and there's no way I could use hall effect throttle into it, so it's a big no for me. Right now the next candidate is either yk42-4 or kelly.
That 36v 600w is cheap but it's very rough looking :(.
By david coffin
#30910
riverie- its a chain drive motor, same dimensions as the original 750.. the 1000 watt is a direct drive. not sure if that comes in a 24 volt variant- it seems 1000 watt and up start at 36 volts..
By robnewyork
#30913
the board u found is garbage , tried one on my lawnmower, most are false advertisement.. mine said 48 v to 12 v power, then i got it and the capacitors are only 35v peak !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! pure garbage ignore them
By rhyoo
#30915
Ok so I emailed currie tech asking for motor replacement, they replied and said my best bet is electricscooterparts.com for any of schwinn spare parts and motor replacement. I just called them and found out that they don't carry those direct drive motor anymore ($240).
But they do carry 36v 1000w with chain drive. I haven't bought any motor yet, but from this case we all know chain drive converting is the only way to go now. It looks like that 36v 1000w motor just a bolt -on on the original direct drive motor mounting. The tricky part for me now is now to install sprocket on it. I look around and see original sprocket for ezip/schwinn 750 is 90 tooth?
Rob, my lipo set up is actually 48v, so I'm looking for kelly with up to 48v. The wiring looks like a rocket science. Are they really that complicated?
By robnewyork
#30917
crazy.im betting you could replace that gear with a sprocket fairly easily, since the same company made all these type of scooters ( swhinn ezip , etc) then use the old cage mount for a regular currie. only other option is to replace the entire factory unit.. or pull the motor from the gear box, and see how the motor cog is connected , and see if the shaft size is the same as a standard currie
By rhyoo
#30929
ok so I just scored a schwinn s500 for $30. This is a same price if I buy the schwinn sprocket alone on the market. I'll see if this is a direct swap on the wheel and motor mount, for this kind of price I just couldn't resist. If it doesn't work I will move on to the s500, either way most likely I will get the chain drive currie motor 36v 1000w, 50A kelly controller, 70A fuse, ammeter, and I'm ready to roll again.
By robnewyork
#30932
kelly tends to exxaggerate a bit , id get the 100 and be done with it .. u can set the power how u want in the interface, and reset it later as needed.. its really simple.theres really no reason a 1000 watt motor cannot handle 60 amps constant, but theres something wrongwith the new mini yk43bs
By robnewyork
#30939
not in my experience at all.. the kelly maxed at 100 amps would cover serious mileage on 24ah.. the yk43b is 196amps tested, and I used to run my mx500 4 miles round trip and still have a lot of battery left.. U need to remember, peak amps are only pulled at take off , once rolling , the controller might only be running 30 amps.
By robnewyork
#30940
this contributes to 2 points of confusion.. one being that the higher amp controllers are less efficient, thats not true,.. and 2 being that a higher amp controller will push more amps to maintain the same cruising speed , also not true.. the extra amps in most apllications actually just improve accleration and hill climbs, after that theyre putting out bare minimal to keep moving forward , just like a 30 amp controller when carrying a small child might only need 12 amps to cruise.
By david coffin
#30955
the stock batteries measure (the 2 12 volt batteries to make 24 volts) overall is 12 inches long, 4 inches wide, 4 inches high. there was an extra 3 inches, i think, for squeezing the controller stock in front of the batteries, before being covered with the deck. i've removed it, to gain clearance height under the rails for bumps and stuff.
By rhyoo
#30957
Thanks David. I'm assuming after you put battery it still have an extra room on the side? My measurement side to side (wide) on s500 is around 5".
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By david coffin
#30969
thats the wiggle room for the stock sla batteries. i cut that pan off, and put in a double-wide on top of the rails, made out of a stainless steel commercial cooking pan i had liberated from when my school's kitchen threw out stuff to make way for new... so i have it 8 and a half inches wide, where you have the 5 and a half that takes the one battery.. so i have 4 up top in a rectangular format.

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