Need new motors? break a chain? brakes not work? swapping out pinions or sprockets?

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

#27312
jgsiao83 wrote:This is the tool I ordered down at the bottom of this page:
https://electricscooterparts.com/whitew ... ctors.html

That's why I ended using the blue connectors you see in my photo. The tool did not come with any instructions on how to crimp and I wasted about 6 copper pieces trying to crimp the right way unsucessfully.
solid connections are very important to me. those ratcheting crimpers are just ok in my opinion. the problem is adjusting the pressure so the crimp is tight but not so tight that it cuts into the insulation.

i recommend non-ratcheting for the most secure crimp. i've been using Engineer crimpers and love them so much i dont use any of my other crimpers:

Image

a good alternative to the Engineer crimper is the Hozan crimper:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hozan-P-706-Ope ... SwuYVWn9Io

yea they're not cheap tools but you get very precise crimps and some peace of mind knowing you have solid connections!
#27325
I ended up ordering the keylock from ebay and this new controller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-500W-motor- ... wz&vxp=mtr

from another USA website seller. Paid about 4 times as much but don't want to wait for China seller.

Will update once parts arrive.

In meantime, I will practice learning how to crimp the wires correctly without relying on the blue plugs I was using in my photos.

Thank you all for your help. Really appreciate all the feedback I've received.
#27328
jgsiao83 wrote:I ordered the same controller from a USA seller from another website.
I already waited so long. Want a new working controller ASAP. !! :)
perfect, now would be a good time to order some cheaper spares from China.

a working controller is fairly easy to smoke, done it quite a few times so far lol...
#27334
I'm proud to share that I finally got my buggy working!! Turns out the issue was the stock on/off switch after all. After removing that, I bridged the 2 cables that was connected to the switch. Now when I pull the throttle, the motor spins!!

I'm not done yet. For some reason, the motor is spinning BACKWARDS!! How come?? Could it be that the motor I got was meant to be mounted on one side of the buggy but I mounted it on the wrong side? ? Do motors come in clockwise/counter-clockwise versions? I'm soooo close. Anybody know how to get the motor to spin FORWARD??

Here are some photos I'd like to share.

1. For the motor mount, I ended up drilling 2 holes into the motor's bracket and bolted it to the frame of the buggy.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7g0zrjn800t4q ... 9.jpg?dl=0

2. Few photos from the backside:
a. https://www.dropbox.com/s/bimvm7jojl5um ... 0.jpg?dl=0
b. https://www.dropbox.com/s/h72pxs8qd3iyu ... 2.jpg?dl=0
c. https://www.dropbox.com/s/822ea1vz147lu ... 5.jpg?dl=0
d. https://www.dropbox.com/s/4w103xthdh0l8 ... 0.jpg?dl=0

I used quite a lot of plastic wire ties to tidy up the cables.

I'm waiting for the key lock thing to complete the upgrade.

Hopefully the fix to get the motor spinning correctly is an easy one. I hate to have to order another motor and wait a few more days...

Again, thank you everyone for your feedback!!! I will post some videos to my YouTube channel as soon as I get it running right. :)
#27344
Thank you. That worked!!

The motor mount took some thinking. I had to prop up the buggy onto a wooden kitchen stool in order to figure out where to drill the holes on the motor bracket. It was also the first time I drilled through metal. I had a portable vacuum hose on the side to pick up all the tiny metal pieces with every few seconds of drilling. Yeah in the end, the motors aligned properly and I screwed it in from down under.

Everything works now. My next task is to install the key switch and perhaps a battery meter?
I definitely would like it to go a bit faster...but I am not ready to pull everything apart again to upgrade the motor/gears or add more battery packs. Gonna enjoy what I have right now for the time being.

THANK YOU all again.
#27346
No need for a battery meter, the kart will slow down drastically when u need a charge.. as far as the switch simply connect A STORE BOUGHT TOGGLE SWITCH to the lock /key wires. should take 3 minutes.. that will be ur master on off.let us know the motor temp after a 30 minute ride
#27362
I took the buggy out for a spin today and noticed the battery didn't really last long. I would say I rode continuously for roughly 15 mins before it started to slow down. If I wanted the battery to last longer, should I add another battery?

When I got home, I measured the 3 battery packs.
1 - 11.76
2-12.25
3-11.90
total: 35.91 volts

I'm wondering with that much juice left, how come the buggy slowed down to a crawl??
#27526
Final buggy with keylock working.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9rwsov580trb3 ... 3.jpg?dl=0

Originally, I was going to mount the charger and keylock on the black plastic cover. But when I closed it up, I realized the cables were dangerously close to the motor chain. So I ended up going to Tap Plastic and picked up a piece of their scrap plastic for $1 and had them custom cut it for me for $2. Took it home, drilled the necessary holes to mount the key lock/charger port, and then spray painted it red. Then I placed electrical tape around it to provide some traction along the frame. Tied everything up with plastic cable ties and placed back the black cover.

Now with my upgraded specs of 500W motor and 3x 12v battery, do you think it's okay to keep that back cover on?? Or should I remove it? I'm not sure how hot the motor/battery will get from continuous run.

Final few things I plan go do will be to add some decals and possibly pick up a few polyethylene pipe insulation to wrap around the buggy's frame for added cushion. :)
#27529
I haven't gotten a chance to test ride it yet. I spent 2 nights trying to figure out the keymount/charger port mount. I have to admit, this "project" has been super fun. Another customization I was thinking of is to spray paint the plastic black "hub caps" from stock black to some other contrasting color...silver perhaps? Thank you again for all the help you have given me!!
#27565
I took the buggy for a spin around my neighborhood last night. I was able to go around the block at full throttle and then when I was about a house away, the buggy slowed to a crawl...HOWEVER...if I waited a few seconds and pulled the throttle again, it will go back to normal but for a few seconds.

I measured the battery and it came out to be 36.88 ...so I definitely have enough battery juice left. Why is the buggy behaving this way?

I'm currently using the stock 24v throttle with my setup. Could this be it? The reason why I went back to stock was because the built quality was so much nicer than the 36v I got from eBay.

I wonder why it takes time to "rest" the buggy a few seconds before I can go again. It's not continuous like hope.

Any idea?
#27568
So what you're saying is that this is a normal behavior with Lead Acid battery?
I'm not able to pull the throttle at full speed and expect to get 20 mins continuous running?
I should go slow and run it at half throttle ?

What confuses me is how come my other Razor scooters don't behave the same way. I can pull the throttle full for 20 mins and do not have any problem.
With the buggy, it's a complete diff story.

That's why I was wondering maybe it's the throttle or maybe a faulty controller? The batteries I'm using a fresh working ones.
By robnewyork
#27570
U SHOULD BE RIDING FOR ATLEAST 30 MINUTES.. That battery charge is very low.. should be starting out at close to 39v so after 3 mins 36.66 makes no sense at all.. charge the batteries on a trickle charger if possible , what size batteries are they again?>? switch back to the cheap hall controller, charge batteries, if this happens again u have something draining the batteries while its sitting or a bad controller!@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
you have had chronic charging problems and i cant say thats 100 percent the issue.. charge them fully on trickle and see what the exact voltage of each battery is after.. The oddds u have a bad charger and bad controller are close to 0% but the only way to give the 3 batteries a go ahead is to run them on another scooter.. if they run another scooter fine its the CONTROLER
#27584
Those 3 batteries were pulled from a working ecoSmart Metro. It was working fine and got me moving for at least 20 mins when I was riding it.

What else could be "draining" the battery?

You mentioned "trickle charge" a few times already. I bought a 36V charger from eBay and I used a car battery charger on each of the battery before I went for a ride. I thought the car battery charger is a trickle charger. If not, would you please recommend me one?

So the chance of a bad throttle is out of the question. And I don't think it's the batteries I pulled. I'm thinking now it must be the controller. Nothing else is draining the battery I don't think....???

The strange thing is...after the buggy comes to a crawl. If I stop and wait a minute, it is fast again but only for a few seconds....kinda like it needs to take a breath. haha
#27588
id vote the controller.. and yes trickle is reference to the car charger.. If the batteries are good , throttle is working normal , and no wires are arcing out in a bad contact area it must be the controller.. I cant think of anything else.That said make sure the batteries are fully charged
#27597
I ordered a new controller. The charger appears to be defective too. I measured the voltage when plugged in and it shows 0.48V only! I compared it with my ecoSmart Metro 36v charger and that one registers at 41V. But a faulty charger does not explain the battery behavior. I'll post another update once I swap out the controller.
#27715
Turns out there was nothing wrong with the controller after all. I was able to take the buggy around the block 4 times at an average speed of 3mph. I think the issue in my first trial run last time was that I full throttled it. This time around, I eased up on the throttle and was going slower.

FULLY CHARGE = 39.31v

After 4 rounds around my block = 36.69v

Does this look right?
#27717
RE: RAZOR GROUNDFORCE DRIFTER KART 24V TO 36V?#27711

By cderoche - Wed May 11, 2016 4:58 pm

Is it OK to reverse the wiring on the controller to the motor without burning anything up? I don't plan on ordering a third one of these, I'm already stuck with two 20A 36V controllers I'll never use.""""""""""""""""""


SEND HIM A PRIVATE MESSAGE ASKING FOR A SHIPPED PRICE ON ONE OF HIS SPARE CONTROLLERS IF U WANT
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