Need new motors? break a chain? brakes not work? swapping out pinions or sprockets?

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

#27101
if its wired right the thottle red wire will show 2-5volts. assuming its wired right.. id assume u had to little ah to push voltage past the controller, did u hear a click??
if the indicator was gounded u can check the output voltage and know if it will work for a meter.. id ground it to something nuetral in the circuit.either way u will need real batteries in good shape to test or ride the thing.usually u will be able to read voltage coming from the controller to motor
#27110
Hi robnewyork

I received the new motor today. I connected everything as recommended. The throttle connection is acting strange.

The controller for the throttle cable has 3 cables (red, black, and blue)
The throttle I got has 4 cables (red, black, yellow, and green)

When I connect red to red, black to black, and blue to green, the motor starts spinning without ever pressing down the throttle lever. When I swapped the yellow with green and connected it to the blue, nothing happens. Even when I press the throttle nothing happens.

Do you think I have a bad controller or a bad throttle? How come the motor spin by itself without the throttle pressed. Did I forget something?
#27112
jgsiao83 wrote:Thanks.

Last night, I tried testing the new controller wiring setup with a smaller voltage battery - first with 2 AAA and then with a SLA 12 Volt (old stock). I used a volt meter to confirm the voltage changes within the various cables. Below is what I observed:


3) The "INDICATOR" cable shows basically the amount of volts from the existing battery connection. I wonder if this cable can be used to hookup the battery gauge once I get everything working.


Correct, the Indicator connector outputs battery voltage. If you wire your battery gauge to this, then it will turn off when your master power switch is off.
#27115
share a link to the throttle.. this is odd if what im reading is correct and the throttle may be bad.. is the throttle new ?? i dont recall too many threads goin with the same issues..but the green and blue should have worked.SOMETHING IS WRONG ,I GOTTA THINK ABOUT WHAT..
DO U HAVE AN OLD spare throttle we can test?
#27199
I hooked up the 3 wire throttle to the controller and it did not power the motor upon pressing the throttle lever.

I measured the power from the red/black cable going to the throttle from the controller and it measured 4.99volts.

I checked connectivity to all the cables and there was no disconnect.

You mentioned the controller I'm using won't work? Why?

The reason why I ordered a new throttle was because I couldn't figure out how to wire the 6 wire stock to the 3 wire controller.

I'm stuck. Which controller do you recommend I order? How come the new throttle is not working? :*(
#27202
okay.. name the colors on throttle wires and controller wires (im assuming all is wired correctly and that the LOCK connector is a complete circuit) IT DOESNT MATTER WHAT HALL THROTTLE OR CONTROLLER ANYONE HAS IT WILL WORK)
example
throttle = red black blue
controller= red black green yellow pink brown
#27204
no matter what connect the red and black wires, red is ALWAYS signal black is ALWAYS GROUND.. now u should have only 1 wire left on throttle.. its either blue or brown or in some cases white.. connect this to the darkest color left over on the controller, make sure the controller is on and test throttle.. if it doesnt work connect the second darkest wire and repeat .. this is 100percent going to work unless the controller is wired wrong or incompletely beforehand
#27207
i see red blue and black coming from the CONTROLLER
isee red black and green coming from THROTTLE
This should be the right connection, but i dont see the additional 3 wires for the throttle coming from the controller.i also dont see where you have connected the 2 wires from the LOCK connector.. And lastly i see a white plastic connection connected to nothing, this may be brakes or something not needed to run
#27208
FIGURED IT OUT, YOU HAVE IT WIRED LIKE A STOCK CONTROLLER WITH CHARGER NEGATIVE HOOKING TO THE 2 POLE SWITCH.. YOU ARE WIRED WRONG AND HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THE THROTTLE AT ALL. YOUR CONTROLLER IS OFF! LET ME LINK YOU TO MY crappy diagram and if u duplicate it the scooter will run.. you just need to alter the charger wiring and the battery wiring and throw that switch in the garbage .
#27215
robnewyork wrote:focus on the battery connection, motor, throttle, and the lock connector.. these are essential to run

better yet, get a new controller and start from scratch. removing the factory connectors and terminals and replacing them with crimp-on insulated terminals is a downgrade, a short circuit waiting to happen...

that controller wiring looks like a rats nest, would be a great pic to show beginners what not to do!
#27218
Thank you guys

I hate to sound dumb, but I'm really new to electronics/wiring. After reading your last comment, I'm still confused:

"sorry no.. the charger wire needs to go to charger port.. both battery wires need to go to battery input on controller (black and red THICK NOT SKINNY) the switch needs out of the equation asap, being a 2 pole it only causes problems and it already has"

At the moment, my charger wires are connected to the charger cables from the controller. Both battery wires go to the controller directly. The only thing is the switch. I removed the switch and connected the two cables from the controller that was connecting to the switch. That did not work.

I noticed on your diagram, you said to twist the lock cables. I think that's what I did right when I connected the two cables that was connecting the switch together after removing the switch. ???
#27219
it looked to me you had one wire from the charger connected to switch , and one wire from the batteriees connected to switch,,
HAve you identified the lock connector and is it a closed circuit?? that seems to be the problem.Are the 2 wires you mention the lock connector wires as per the controllers wiring list?
#27220
its pretty straight forward/ you said the charger 3 prong port is wired directly to the charger input on the controller via black and red wires.
The 36v battery pack is continuous with no interruptions and wired straight to the thick black and red battery wires on controller.
the throttle is wired as seen in pic, red to red, black to black and green to blue with no additional throttle wires from the controller/
so the controller is getting 36v from the batteries. the lock connector has a complete circuit so the controller is ON< the throttle is hard wired with three connections,and the motor is wired to the large blue and yellow 10 gauge wires from controller.. there are no switches , relays , breakers, or any other means of breaking the circuit.. the motor should spin
#27221
Yes, on paper, sounds pretty straight forward. Last night I removed the switch and connected the 2 "lock cable" that once connected the switch...I connected them together. All other cables were the same. Battery cables went to controller, charger port cable went to controller, throttle cable went to controller, motor cable went to controller. Still, the throttle wound not activate the motor.

How do we test for certain if the controller is powered on or not? I'm tempted to remove the metal housing from the controller to peek inside the wiring to see if anything looks off.
Should I just order a new controller?
#27222
jgsiao83 wrote:On your 6 pin stock throttle, which 3 pins did you use to connect to the 3 pin controller?

Which controller did you order?


I ordered the 36v 800w YK31C off ebay, from China, for $16. Put a Currie 24v 500w motor in.

The stock throttle was red, black, white (I think) to the controller's red, black and blue. Blue obviously goes to white. The other wires went to the brake and one was loose, believe that is the warning light for voltage. It works extremely well. They are all hall effect so as long as it can handle the voltage, they all should work identical.
#27223
jgsiao83 wrote:Yes, on paper, sounds pretty straight forward. Last night I removed the switch and connected the 2 "lock cable" that once connected the switch...I connected them together. All other cables were the same. Battery cables went to controller, charger port cable went to controller, throttle cable went to controller, motor cable went to controller. Still, the throttle wound not activate the motor.

How do we test for certain if the controller is powered on or not? I'm tempted to remove the metal housing from the controller to peek inside the wiring to see if anything looks off.
Should I just order a new controller?


Should be straight forward to see if on. Got any 12v light bulbs? Like for a car. Hook up to the brake light on the controller, hit the brakes, see if it lights up. Or test the voltage on the power lead going to the throttle.
#27224
YEP, Test the power .. Another note is that i think u mentioned there were more wires coming fro m the controller to the throttle that u did not connect.. did you test these?if u have another picture please post it.. seems something minor is wrong.for example if the brake cutoff connector is attached to anything that will cut power to the controller bc the controlleer thinks u are on the throttle
#27226
jgsiao83 wrote:I'm tempted to remove the metal housing from the controller to peek inside the wiring to see if anything looks off.

for someone "new to electronics" it does not make sense to open up the housing.

with that said, yes you should buy a new controller and start from scratch if you havent figured out this problem yet.
and dont hack up the new controller trying to troubleshoot a problem. removing the white connectors from the controller turned an easy task into a complicated one.

checking for power on a YK31C is easy, just hook up a DMM to the indicator leads. if you see a reading then the controller is getting power.
#27228
robnewyork wrote:YEP, Test the power .. Another note is that i think u mentioned there were more wires coming fro m the controller to the throttle that u did not connect.. did you test these?if u have another picture please post it.. seems something minor is wrong.for example if the brake cutoff connector is attached to anything that will cut power to the controller bc the controlleer thinks u are on the throttle


No there were 6 wires coming from throttle. 5 were used connecting to controller. Ill have to look tonight. Im pretty sure when I was trying to figure out cabling i used the diagram for the thr-132 scooterparts sells.
#27230
ok, i was seeing if he also had additional wires coming from the controller or throttle.if he had addition coming from the controller i wanted to test other signal wires.(if in the event the blue was not it) HE could wire the stock controller up at 36v but no gaurentee it will run 36v..if he identified all the wires correctly it seems like he has it wired right...once i see a new picture it will hopefully be easier to decipher.
#27262
Here is another photo of my connections:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vv8l68haylyun ... 9.jpg?dl=0

I removed the power switch from the equation and connected both cable together.

The black/red cable with yellow tape registers 37volts when I measure with my voltmeter.
The charger cable is connected directly to the controller.
The battery cable is connected directly to the controller.
The throttle is also connected directly to the controller.

Still, I'm not able to get any movement of the motor when I pull the throttle.

I have tested the motor with my previous throttle which would constantly spin when the green cable was connected.

I think I will order a new controller and start over.

I ordered the white and copper connectors and also a crimper tool. The problem I had was that I could not figure out how to crimp the copper pieces to the end of the wire.

This is the tool I ordered down at the bottom of this page:
https://electricscooterparts.com/whitew ... ctors.html

That's why I ended using the blue connectors you see in my photo. The tool did not come with any instructions on how to crimp and I wasted about 6 copper pieces trying to crimp the right way unsucessfully.

Would someone please recommend to me a reliable controller that will work for a 36v 500w configuration? I just want one that works.
#27287
I'm in the market for a new controller today.

The YK31C is 36V 800W. Would it be fine since my motor is only 500W?

Looking at the diagram posted
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/hoo ... -YK31C.htm

What would the key switch connector be connected to?
While I'm ordering, what power switch should I order to connect to this controller?
I'll order the exact one that works.
#27289
the wattage ratings on controllers mean almost nothing.. the yk43b is listed as 1000watts and pushes 12000watts
the key switch can be wired to any single pole switch , the best quality for cheap is this 300amps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Battery-Di ... Nh&vxp=mtr
any toggle switch would work its simply the fact this can be used on wayyyy more powerful applications later
long long title how many chars? lets see 123 ok more? yes 60

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