Need new motors? break a chain? brakes not work? swapping out pinions or sprockets?

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

#28593
musicnmotionz wrote:Hello Iworktofish,

Congrats on your dune buggy build! I can't imagine the fun you're having on that thing! Could you help me out with where you bought the sprocket for your industrial motor, and also, how did you secure the sprocket to the motor shaft?

Thanks!
Greetings. Rob provided me with a link earlier in this thread. Pick the size you need: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... Sprockets/

There are 2 small allan screws that hold the sprocket in place on the shaft. The motor shaft already had 2 flat spots to receive the screws, but they were in the wrong spot. I simply used a cutoff wheel to create 2 new flat spots in the position on the shaft where I needed. I suppose you could also use a file, or dremel.


#28628
robnewyork wrote:thats really good mileage for what it is , and yes i looked like an idiot riding mine around town to run errands etc.
Put in about 9 cumulative miles this weekend over 3 outings. 2 runs at 2.5mi with full charge inbetween, no problem. I took a longer run, and if my phone logged correctly, it was 3.8mi. I'd estimate at ~3mi the battery fell off pretty quickly. We had to switch carts and I pushed my cart home with her on it, riding her cart with the 900w currie at 36v which still had juice left.

My cart is really fun on grass :).

The 2nd Ohio Motor came in so I'll duplicate the same build on her cart, but at 36v. Then I'll put the 900w Currie up on ebay.
#28664
thats awesome, all the specs look identical! what gear will you use on this motor?? the shaft diamter seems to be listed wrong as 7/16th when we know the one you have is 1/2 inch as i recall. If it is 1/2 inch you may wana try the 14 tooth, the difference on my cart from 17 to 14 teeth was dramatic which im sure u realized looking back on the 11 tooth 900w setup
#28668
robnewyork wrote:thats awesome, all the specs look identical! what gear will you use on this motor?? the shaft diamter seems to be listed wrong as 7/16th when we know the one you have is 1/2 inch as i recall. If it is 1/2 inch you may wana try the 14 tooth, the difference on my cart from 17 to 14 teeth was dramatic which im sure u realized looking back on the 11 tooth 900w setup
thanks for catching that. I just checked and shaft is same as other one. Motor is identical, just looks newer. I have 14-15-16-17-20t sprockets. I ran mine on 17t at 36v and GPS clocks it at 16mph with still plenty of torque for doughnuts in the grass. Her current setup is only reaching 12-13mph and she wants it faster. I think I'll go with 17t again.
#28671
well , now u will have 2 karts that should be bulletproof.. thats the great part about using industrial motors over most any other motors, its designed for the abuse.i still wanna do mine with the 550 amp kelly one of these days , its a 2.5hp 36v clarke internally cooled. Its impossible to find good chassis' here compared to ny ..I looked for months for an old atv or dead moped.I dont think id bother mounting 550 amp to a razor kart, but it may have been fun , wish i did it when i already had one built but overestimated the complexity of the kelly controllers , thyyere quite simple, just a stupid layout with too many options even for a golf cart
#28822
2 broken chains so far. Both broken by the same friend LOL. I need to teach him how to ease on it on pavement or going up a steep hill, as the torque has to go somewhere.

You guys doing anything special with your chains/endlinks? I'm using the stuff I bought from surplus center. The sprockets are perfectly aligned, and the chain is kept tight, no slack.
#28823
If you are using #25 chain then that is the problem. It is WAY overloaded in your setup. I was running it on my industrial powered buggies with a yk43b and it started coming off. Then Rob let me know that I had probably stretched it. I had by a lot. Then I looked up the force spec for the different types of chain and could see the problem. I converted to #35 chain and the problem went away.
#28824
codeman wrote:If you are using #25 chain then that is the problem. It is WAY overloaded in your setup. I was running it on my industrial powered buggies with a yk43b and it started coming off. Then Rob let me know that I had probably stretched it. I had by a lot. Then I looked up the force spec for the different types of chain and could see the problem. I converted to #35 chain and the problem went away.
Thanks and dumb question...I take it by upgrading to #35 chain, I will also have to upgrade to #35 sprockets? The Razor Dune Buggy has some funky jackshaft with multiple sprockets, and it appears I would have to upgrade a few then. I recall reading they are difficult to get to.
#28826
25 has worrked reliably, but in the dune buggy with industrial , its really subject to a lot of stress.yes ud need to change all the sprockets.. If u set up all the 25 chains very tight,. the stretch will actually break in at the right lenght..I did it and the chain stayed on my dune buggy long term.. But it had to start out very tight, i had to force roll em on
#28836
Yes you have to change all of the sprockets. I have a few pictures posted on how I did it. I replaced the jack shaft with a 1/2" shaft. I found bearings on amazon that fit the diameter of the chassis, which is metric, and had a 1/2" shaft. I redid the jack shaft such that the motor driven sprocket is at the opposite end of the jack shaft.
#28844
codeman wrote:Found it.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2823&p=23071#p23071
WOW, nice. Unfortunately my fabrication skillset appears to be far inferior to yours. I'll try the #25 a 3rd time and have a delicate discussion with the same friend who managed to break it 2x, about how to gently roll on the throttle. I've had no issue when I ride it, but I'm used to going easy. My daily driver puts out 500hp at the crank, when stock is 240, and I've managed to hold my independent rear suspension together for >100k of boosted miles :).
#28846
I have larger diameter wheels and tires and they would hit the side batteries. Is your build for pavement or dirt. Mine are dirt. They are geared fairly low and have torque like crazy. They do donuts with my 175 pound self on them. They also understeer badly because all of the weight is in the back. I did that because the resistance of the wire goes up a lot as you add length. I run 24V and I already have trouble hitting the low voltage cut off. When I go to 36V I may try adding a battery in the front like you have it. I hate the stock wheels and put $5 dolly wheels on it from Harbor Freight tools. Search my posts if interested. It will dramatically increase the gear ratio though. I have so much torque that I ripped one of the tires open. Also not that when the wheels increase in diameter the tiny disc brake stinks even worse than it does stock.
#28847
sorry wrong post , i opened the thread and landed on page 1 where i read the O.P saying he wanted bigger batts..I never ran a dune buggy in dirt, there wasnt much in queens. The 35 chain conversion is fairly complex but id certainly hate to have to feather the throttle on anything as mentioned above.The entire premise of the cart over 2 wheels is that you can really put the power down.If it was only one sprocket, id offer to bore it on my lathe , but its more like 4 and all hardened steel.
#28849
Rob it is actually only one sprocket to bore on my set up. I converted the jack shaft to 1/2" and used #35 sprockets for 1/2" shaft. The only one to bore is the one for the axle itself. I used a drill press and took it really slow. You are only boring it a few millimeters. The bigger pain was cutting out the side supports on the frame where the jack shaft is so I can have the motor driven sprocket on that side.
#28850
Rob it is actually only one sprocket to bore on my set up. I converted the jack shaft to 1/2" and used #35 sprockets for 1/2" shaft. The only one to bore is the one for the axle itself. I used a drill press and took it really slow. You are only boring it a few millimeters. The bigger pain was cutting out the side supports on the frame where the jack shaft is so I can have the motor driven sprocket on that side.
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