Need new motors? break a chain? brakes not work? swapping out pinions or sprockets?

Moderators: robnewyork, bassiclyLouDog, gameboy

#28231
Greetings,

Razor DB #1 (for my daughter)
24v 500w 2500rpm motor 11t
CT-660B9 36V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller (SPD-CT660B9)
36v (3x 12v 15ah batteries)
10ga wiring

It ran fine all last summer. ~15mph, plenty of torque, and when I completed build #2 for me this past weekend, both the motor & controller shorted. (grommet on motor moved, both wires shorted to motor case, no voltage out of controller, motor does not spin when power applied directly). I would like to keep this at 36v and wouldn't mind a bit more top speed. I just bought this YK43 http://www.ebay.com/itm/170395874218?it ... m=&vxp=mtr today and I need a motor recommendation.

Build #2 (mine, just finished last weekend)
24v 900w 2600rpm Currie 11t
YK43B
48v (4x 12v 15ah batteries)
8ga wiring

Holy cow...1st time I fully pressed the throttle from a dead stop, it literally flipped over, landing me on my back LOL. Top speed is ~17mph (I wouldn't mind 20). Aside from learning the hard way about the massive torque, my concern is the 900w currie gets very hot after 15min, compared to build #1 that can go for 90min and just gets warm. I'd hate to burn it up, considering it was a pricey motor.

Summary, and my thoughts:
#1 build needs a motor that will last at 36v with the YK43. Or if this controller is overkill, please recommend an alternate one (36v) and matching motor that is similar or better to the 24v/500w that shorted. Or perhaps I can take the 900w currie from build #2 and use at 36v with YK43?

#2 build, I like it the way it is, maybe just a bit faster, but I'm concerned about the motor getting hot. Do I replace the YK43 with one that sends less current, or find a better suited motor (again limited to 7.5") and use the 900w currie in build #1.

I'm open to suggestions, preferably those that maximize the parts/setup I currently have, or minimize the expense of new parts.

Lastly...has anyone upgraded the brakes in these Dune Buggy's? The older buggy takes longer to stop, and I'm thinking I need a new caliper/pads.

Sorry for the long post. Any advice is appreciated.
#28238
the 900 watt is very pricey , id switch it to running a kelly 100 amp controller 24-48v and adjust the power on ur laptop till u find a setting thats a good balnce of heat and power\keep in mind that the 900watt is rated at 24v so you shouldnt be running any higher than 36v in general.. the motor will blow on the yk43b its just a matter of time ( it may hold up at 24v but thats it
http://kellycontroller.com/kds48100e100 ... p-285.html
#28240
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3135

this is a recent project thats ongoing , it has an industrial motor much like mine did.. the motor fits with some fabrication and is fairly cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohio-Motor-24-v ... 55?vxp=mtr

63 shipped on a 20 lb motor is unreal. on the yk43b u can run it at 36v for 3300 rpm and u will likely do 20 mph plus and reliably
#28243
robnewyork wrote:the 900 watt is very pricey , id switch it to running a kelly 100 amp controller 24-48v and adjust the power on ur laptop till u find a setting thats a good balnce of heat and power\keep in mind that the 900watt is rated at 24v so you shouldnt be running any higher than 36v in general.. the motor will blow on the yk43b its just a matter of time ( it may hold up at 24v but thats it
http://kellycontroller.com/kds48100e100 ... p-285.html


First, thank you for your help :). This hobby is getting expensive because I am buying controllers, motors, 36 & 48v chargers, extra batteries and then researching after the fact to find my components don't match well. Apologies in advance...I will have questions.

To make sure I understand, will the 900w Currie (or 700w currie, or common 24v 500w 2500rpm) blow on the yk43b EVEN if I drop from 48v to 36v? My most recent plan was to drop back to 36v for both (wasting $100 in a new battery + 48v charger) and then go from 11t to 15t on the Currie to make up for lost speed, hopefully while still retaining torque? 15mph for my daughter's and 17-20mph for mine is fine, as long as we can have 60-90min of minimum run time. My subdivision has lots of trails. But if the YK43B won't work even at 36v with these smaller motors, I'll swap controllers, or consider an industrial motor for my build only, and just replace the parts that broke on hers with exact parts and rely on taller gears.

robnewyork wrote:http://forum.modifiedelectricscooters.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3135

this is a recent project thats ongoing , it has an industrial motor much like mine did.. the motor fits with some fabrication and is fairly cheap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohio-Motor-24-v ... 55?vxp=mtr

63 shipped on a 20 lb motor is unreal. on the yk43b u can run it at 36v for 3300 rpm and u will likely do 20 mph plus and reliably


That sounds like a bargain that I might jump on before it sells, but I do have the following questions:
1. I can't find dimensions. Is that similar sized to your build in your video (sick BTW...but overkill for me). I'd like to keep it compact so I can still store standing up in the minimal space I have, and I can't tell if that motor will stick out
2. What kind of runtime would I expect using 3 12v/15ah batteries?
3. Where do you get sprockets?
4. Tooth recommendation for 20mph at 3300rpm? The 900w Currie running at 48v should have been spinning at 5200rpm and I only made it to 17mph. I'm thinking i'll need a 16-17t.

I'm glad you responded because I was about to spend $200 for a new motor, chain, sprockets, etc as I have my 1wk vacation with my daughter next week and her go kart just broke. Wanted to get it up and running. But I'm certainly entertaining your suggestions.

Thanks!
#28249
any motor over 350w will stick out . an industrial motor doesnt meet your criteria for keeping it compact and will require much larger batts than 15Ah for any decent runtime with a yk43b controller.

if the currie is getting too hot now, adding a bigger motor sprocket will only make the motor hotter. that's too nice and pricey of a motor to run under those conditions IMO.

but if money is no issue then i'd switch out to a brushless motor and lipos - you'll get the higher RPMs and you'll lower your power draw compared to an overvolted brushed motor...
#28251
zen_racer wrote:any motor over 350w will stick out . an industrial motor doesnt meet your criteria for keeping it compact and will require much larger batts than 15Ah for any decent runtime with a yk43b controller.

if the currie is getting too hot now, adding a bigger motor sprocket will only make the motor hotter. that's too nice and pricey of a motor to run under those conditions IMO.

but if money is no issue then i'd switch out to a brushless motor and lipos - you'll get the higher RPMs and you'll lower your power draw compared to an overvolted brushed motor...


Thanks Zen. "Stick out" I guess is relative. The MY1020 I have on hers at ~5.5" length still leaves me 2" room. The 900w Currie is even smaller. These industrial motors require moving to the opposite side and really stick out LOL.

For hers, I think I've decided to do one the following:
1. Replace cheap MY1020, easy bolt on, plug in, and swap 11t to 12-13t
2. Give her my 900w Currie and swap 11t to 12-13t
3. Buy new 750w Currie and swap 11t to 12-13t
In any of the 3 options, I'm ditching the YK43b and need a 36v controller recommendation. This is what I was using and it's all wired for it, but I'm open to upgrading to another if these motors will handle more than the 40A spec'd on the controller. Rob posted a Kelly model with nice adjustability, but it seems complex to setup and it's unclear if it's coming from China (need it quickly). She's happy with the current torque and run time, but would like to go 2-3mph faster. Thoughts please?
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=182

I know nothing about "brushless motors and lipos"...can you ballpark a cost estimate to go this route for a motor, batteries and controller?

As for mine, I'm pondering the following:
1. Ohio industrial motor Rob suggested, 36v with my YK43b
2. Ohio industrial motor Rob suggested, 36v with a different controller that limits current (suggestion needed...a different thread mentioned a YK42-4?)
3. Keep my 900w Currie, drop down from 48 to 36v, and a different controller that limits current (suggestion needed).
4. Open to another option that balances between ~20mph, ~60min run time with my 15ah batteries.

I realize all of the above have tradeoffs. #1 limits run time but probably most fun to drive. #1-2 require I get help with mounting. #3 sacrifices fun for run time, and probably less long term reliability.

And the kicker...I'd like to be back up and running ASAP as I promised my daughter we'd have some quality go kart time next week, but that plan is quickly eroding.

Thanks Rob & Zen for suggestions thus far. Let me know your thoughts on either of my plans, comments on motor options, and suggestions for suitable controllers?
#28252
Iworktofish wrote:Thanks Zen. "Stick out" I guess is relative. The MY1020 I have on hers at ~5.5" length still leaves me 2" room. The 900w Currie is even smaller. These industrial motors require moving to the opposite side and really stick out LOL.

woops, thats my bad... for some reason i was visualizing the ground force drifter and not the dune buggy in my reply, disregard that 350w comment lol

due to time constraints, for hers maybe try the 12-13t first and monitor the motor temp?

Iworktofish wrote:4. Open to another option that balances between ~20mph, ~60min run time with my 15ah batteries.


#4 is going to be tough. i also have a dune buggy with mods planned and your goals are similar to mine. my plan was to go brushless 48v 1600w. its about the same size as a 500w Unite motor, spins at almost twice the RPMs and draws less current, which means i can go with smaller batteries or have longer run time:

http://www.hyperpowersports.com/product ... ckets.html

thats the type of brushless motor i'm targeting for my dune buggy build. will easily fit under the hood with room to spare for the controller.

lipos are lithium batteries that are popular for RC cars, drones, etc. they are much smaller/lighter than SLA batts. i've used them in other projects to save myself time not having to fabricate or modify the battery tray. these are the ones i've used:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

lipos require a bit more investment and maintenance, and they're not the safest battery chemistry for kids. other than that i really like performance benefits, especially the reduced voltage sag...
#28253
as for 36v controller options, the stock razor MX500/MX650/Ecosmart controller would be ok for your daughter's ride.

i'd probably recommend the yiyun controllers on ebay though, since they're a bit cheaper and easier to work with.

can't go wrong with a kelly though, thats in a different league...maybe try one of those for your build?
#28257
zen_racer wrote:
Iworktofish wrote:Thanks Zen. "Stick out" I guess is relative. The MY1020 I have on hers at ~5.5" length still leaves me 2" room. The 900w Currie is even smaller. These industrial motors require moving to the opposite side and really stick out LOL.

woops, thats my bad... for some reason i was visualizing the ground force drifter and not the dune buggy in my reply, disregard that 350w comment lol

due to time constraints, for hers maybe try the 12-13t first and monitor the motor temp?

Iworktofish wrote:4. Open to another option that balances between ~20mph, ~60min run time with my 15ah batteries.


#4 is going to be tough. i also have a dune buggy with mods planned and your goals are similar to mine. my plan was to go brushless 48v 1600w. its about the same size as a 500w Unite motor, spins at almost twice the RPMs and draws less current, which means i can go with smaller batteries or have longer run time:

http://www.hyperpowersports.com/product ... ckets.html

thats the type of brushless motor i'm targeting for my dune buggy build. will easily fit under the hood with room to spare for the controller.

lipos are lithium batteries that are popular for RC cars, drones, etc. they are much smaller/lighter than SLA batts. i've used them in other projects to save myself time not having to fabricate or modify the battery tray. these are the ones i've used:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

lipos require a bit more investment and maintenance, and they're not the safest battery chemistry for kids. other than that i really like performance benefits, especially the reduced voltage sag...


WOW. THAT is impressive. A friend said "why don't you build a battery pack with lithium 18650's?" but I figure I'd stick to what I know (copying what everyone else is doing).

Your solution looks like it perfectly fits what I'm looking for. Everything fits, long run time, motor is still less than the 900w Currie. You need to step up your build timeline so I can copy :).

Questions on this setup:
Do those lipos last longer than SLA's?
How do you charge? I'm guessing the 48v 3 prong charger I just bought for my SLA's won't work.
What controller can I use? If I can retain my YK43b that would be nice, but I'll part with cash to do it right.

And again, thank you for taking the time to help me.
#28259
Clarifying "does lipos last longer than SLA's"...my experience is I go thru 18650's in my fishing headlamps after 1-2 seasons and have to replace. I don't know how long SLA's last, but if I go your route, I can remove my 4 new 12v/15ah SLA's I just bought for mine, and save them for when my daughter's SLA's are dead.
#28260
zen_racer wrote:as for 36v controller options, the stock razor MX500/MX650/Ecosmart controller would be ok for your daughter's ride.

i'd probably recommend the yiyun controllers on ebay though, since they're a bit cheaper and easier to work with.

can't go wrong with a kelly though, thats in a different league...maybe try one of those for your build?


I called Kelly and they said it would ship from China. I wish I had more time, but I need a controller and motor next week just to get hers back on the road, and to immediately replace my YK43b so I don't burn out my 900w Currie in the interim while I'm structuring a lipos/brushless build.

Typing in Yiyun 36v controller on ebay only came back with 4 results (for US only) and they were all the same. Are you familiar with this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/800W-36-V-DC-Yi ... SwmUdUWB9a

It does not specify current, but looks almost identical to the CT660B9 I bought from electronicscooterparts at 1/2 the price. CT660B9 is 40A output, and I wouldn't want to downgrade. Let me know if that's the one you had in mind, or if another can be sourced stateside. Otherwise I'll go with another CT660 or research a stock MX500 controller.
#28262
Iworktofish wrote:You need to step up your build timeline so I can copy :).

yea my kids, nephews and i agree but my wife thinks i need to focus on the home remodel projects. its an uphill battle lol

Iworktofish wrote:Do those lipos last longer than SLA's?

by last do you mean run time or long term durability? with lipos you can run them down to a lower percentage of rated capacity than SLA, all other factors being equal ... so in that sense i believe they offer longer run time.

you'll need a lipo charger for sure, thats what i was hinting at with the "investment" comment lol. a decent lipo charger and paraboard (so you can charge multiple battteries at the same time) would be a good start... i have several lipo charges and my recommendation for best bang for the buck is this, esp if you can find it on sale:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

http://www.buddyrc.com/paraboard-v3-xh-xt60.html

and you'll need a power supply... i recommend going with a converted server PSU:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/rc-power-supply ... 28024345e1

these have much better components than the fancy RC power supplies!

you can use lipos with any controller. i like to match up the controller to the motor, so for a cheapo low wattage unite motor i think the yiyun controllers are fine... but for a nicer motor i'd want to run the kelly so i can tune the parameters and get the most performance out of that setup
#28264
Iworktofish wrote:Typing in Yiyun 36v controller on ebay only came back with 4 results (for US only) and they were all the same. Are you familiar with this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/800W-36-V-DC-Yi ... SwmUdUWB9a

yiyun is basically my shorthand for inexpensive chinese universal controller lol...what area are you in? i looked at your ebay link, that controller should work and alfa_wheels is a good seller based on my experiences with them.

this is also basically the same thing as the yiyun and ships domestic:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorized-Bicyc ... iO&vxp=mtr

might also consider taking advantage of the father's day discount at MSP:

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/trsc ... oller.html

MSP ships fast and i've made plenty of purchases from them, but i generally dont buy controllers from US sellers because the markup is way too high for my taste...
#28267
zen_racer wrote:by last do you mean run time or long term durability? with lipos you can run them down to a lower percentage of rated capacity than SLA, all other factors being equal ... so in that sense i believe they offer longer run time.

you'll need a lipo charger for sure, thats what i was hinting at with the "investment" comment lol.

you can use lipos with any controller. i like to match up the controller to the motor, so for a cheapo low wattage unite motor i think the yiyun controllers are fine... but for a nicer motor i'd want to run the kelly so i can tune the parameters and get the most performance out of that setup


I was referring to long term durability. I was curious if it's a replace every 1-2 seasons which I have to do with my 18650's I heavily use in flashlights. As that would get expensive. But it's good to know the runtime is longer than SLA's.

Charging question...I know nothing about those lipo chargers provided in the links, what they all do, and the "process" for charging...seems like batteries have to be removed? How come it can't be the same process as charging my current setups? Pull in garage, plug in something like this: http://www.hyperpowersports.com/product ... -pole.html

Controller question...I'm seeing "brushless motor controllers" with a lot more wiring. Here's an example:

Can I simply use my YK43b (and is that safe for that motor?), or a YK42-4, or a Yiyun with the 48v 1600w brushless motor you provided earlier? If so, I'm ordering that motor tonight.

If the brushless motor will work with YK43b, I'll swap that in #2 and move the 900w Currie to #1 with this http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/trsc ... oller.html and she's back on the road, done. Might just have to experiment with sprocket sizing.

Then for #2, brushless motor, proper controller (after you clarify) and I'm thinking for now I'll leave my current 48v SLA battery setup and matching charger, and deal with limited runtime, until I can figure out what all those charging parts do. Best case, I can buy that lipo charger I posted above and just plug in via an 3 prong adapter.

Again, many thanks for the help.
#28270
i have a lot of catching up to do but givin shipping time the options are limited.. going from a 900watt double volted on a yk43 b the kart will seem extremely slow on vitually all other setups mentioned but it will be reliable which its not right now.. I would gear the plan torward wehat to do permanently when u get back seeing as how theres not many options as is.. running the 900watt yk43b at 24 v will work for now but i think the LVC will cause a nasty stall every time u hit the throttle hard. the 5600 rpm brushless is a very nice motor and people have had amazing results on a golden or kelly controller.
#28272
You bring up an interesting point. It is hard to go backwards once you felt power. Will that brushless motor provide the same torque has an my1020 at 36v?

Here is what I have that works:
2 Razor Dune Buggys wired with 10 & 8ga
2 YK43B's
1 900w Currie
8 12v/15a SLA batteries ( 3 of one brand, 4 of another)
2 LCD Volt displays
2 Battery Disconnects

Basically, both go karts were fully functional until her controller and motor burned out, and mine is with mismatched components.
#28273
the brushless has more power than the 500 watt ,but it depends what controller ur running moreso than anything.. the 900 watt brushless would be a dog on 30 amps , and so would the brushless.be back shortly to break down the parts list, amps = torque, since u were running crazy amperage u had crazy torque, if u were gonna push the limits of the brushless with the same abuse im sure it would temporarily be as fast ( not long at all
#28278
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... duct_id=59

http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=175

the yk42-4 u mentioned earlier is a great controller but only ideal with either an industrial or a larger 36v scooter motor..

one thing i gathered from ur builds is that they were both extremely fast, nothing ive ridden compares to the grunt of a yk43b on a buggy
#28279
Oh 1 takeoff set of oem controller/motor.
24-36-48v chargers, one of each.

Rob 24v 900w currie doesn't sound fun, but you're probably right. I also can order a 36 volt controller that limits to about 40 amps and request 2 day shipping. Then that cart would stay as is for her, essentially being the same setup but with a better motor. I would be cartless unless I want to expedite shipping as well.

I'm hesitant to buy parts and put stuff together only to change it for a permanent set up. I definitely would like to finalize a permanent setup. But I appreciate the suggestions and your time.

Our week together is a staycation, so we're not going anywhere. But I need to make sure she's having fun while with me. Even if I can get something set up for Thursday or Friday next week it's better than nothing. And she was actually asking if she can help me put it together :-)

So help me put together a brushless setup, or with that industrial motor for $65.
I'm really digging this brushless motor build provided it will be faster (acceleration and top speed) than hers. I need to be able to pass her for safety reasons.
#28282
long term durability is going to be mostly determined by user maintenance. i've been very careful in how i store my lipos so i havent had any issues with them. i've already had to replace SLAs that were newer than my lipos.

lipo chargers are needed to reach the higher voltages required for lithium battery chemistry, and more importantly they perform the required cell balancing for lipo packs.

a 12v SLA is composed of 6 cells. each SLA cell will charge up to a max of 2.46v. a lipo cell will charge up to a max of 4.20v.

an SLA charger will not supply enough voltage to properly charge a lipo cell, nor will it balance the cells so that each cell ends up with equal voltage. for lipos an unbalanced pack, or an overcharged pack, or an overdischarged pack is a potential fire hazard or mini explosion.

that charger you linked is for lithium ion, not lipo. you would need to match that charger to this pack:

http://www.hyperpowersports.com/product ... arger.html

thats the cost of simplicity. i opted to save money, buy 3 lipo packs for 44.4v 16Ah at $150, and accept that the pack will need to be balance charged externally.

brushless controllers have extra connections for the motor, usually 3 wires instead of 2. they may also have connections for hall sensors, PAS sensors, speed sensors, etc which dont apply to brushed motor setups.

most of these connections are optional, same thing for a brushed controller.
Last edited by zen_racer on Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#28283
so its not for 9 days?? the low amperage controller combined with the 500 watt on her kart will be wayyyyy slower than it was with the yk43b , same top speed (amps =torque volts = rpm )
the brushless motor with a good controller will be faster than her 30 amp controlled 500 watt kart for sure, even on 40 amps..the brushless controllers have a wider variety of amperage options than the brushed for some reason.without doing a serious motor nothing will be faster than ur 900 watt currie on the yk43b , im referring to acceleration , not top speed.and yes , making 2 temp rigs and then wanting to make permanent setups right after will suck..since ur kart runs and theres no need for parts right now we should really focus on hers.the downfall is her top speed will be higher running 36v than urs running 24..
#28284
I DIDNT KNOW IF U MEANT U STILL HAVE THE STOCK MOTORS,this is the temp solution, long term id do the brushless setup zen suggested on hers and either the kelly -currie combo or industrial yk42-4 on urs

ok short term quick plan..2 36v generic low amperage controllers, and 1 used or cheap ebay motor for hers that will bolt right in so u dont need to fabricate anything.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-DC-Electric ... Sw3KFWd8-5
CONTROLLERS,need 2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-350W-Motor- ... Sz&vxp=mtr

depending on where u live these items would be there tuesday and installed by friday
#28296
Rob & Zen, catching up with you both, and narrowing in on a permanent solution.

Zen,
based on reviewing those links, it sounds like I have to spend about $300 or more to switch to lipo, and that lithium ion setup was $500 and was only 20ah. Logically, I don't think I'm ready for either expense considering I still have to buy the motor and controller.

What we haven't discussed, is there any good reason why I can't use my existing 48 volt SLA setup that's already wired and done on my cart, with that 1600w 48v 5600rpm wireless motor and controller? Compatible? Good run time? It seems that route would be most economical, and offer decent performance. Feasible? And, small note, would the brushless controller work with my stock thumb throttle? (these seem hard to find and I don't want to fabricate a new steering wheel)

Rob,
Our staycation starts Sunday night, and goes thru the following Sunday. I have kayaking, archery, shooting range, gymnastics, fishing, swimming, and riding our go karts planned :). So we have other things to do, but ideally I'd like to have both dune buggy's in their permanent setups done for at least the last half of our 7 days, as it's nice to pull out of the garage and directly on to the trails that make for a 30-45min nature ride. I can make that happen as long as I can finalize both setups now, source parts domestically, and buy them tomorrow, paying 2 day shipping.

To clarify, her setup was MY1020 24v 500w running at 36v using a 40a controller, and it reached ~15mph. When her controller fried, I bought a YK43b for it (before I knew better) because it was ~ the same cost and simple to wire, but I did not install yet. She was perfectly happy with the acceleration of her setup before both motor and controller fried due to a failed grommet, but just wanted 2-3 more mph.

My setup...it was so fast off the line that power was unusable. I have a video of me flipping it LOL, but I'm embarrassed to post publicly :). Here are some stills of that "excursion" LOL: Image

You had to slowly roll on the "lightswitch" throttle (taking away the fun), and then once it got going you could open it and you were already topped out at ~17mph. I also wanted 2-3 more mph. I only rode it 2 days, ~30-45min each day, and was real easy on it due to heat. (and particularly after it landed me on my back LOL)

robnewyork wrote: the low amperage controller combined with the 500 watt on her kart will be wayyyyy slower than it was with the yk43b , same top speed (amps =torque volts = rpm )
the brushless motor with a good controller will be faster than her 30 amp controlled 500 watt kart for sure, even on 40 amps..the brushless controllers have a wider variety of amperage options than the brushed for some reason.without doing a serious motor nothing will be faster than ur 900 watt currie on the yk43b , im referring to acceleration , not top speed

long term id do the brushless setup zen suggested on hers and either the kelly -currie combo or industrial yk42-4 on urs


Narrowing down to final choices, I already have the 900w currie, so ideally, that will be one setup running 36v using a proper controller. If you don't think something like this: http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/trsc ... oller.html will match it well and get good performance out of it, what I can do is temporarily use the YK43b at 24v (or 36v and going easy?) and then order that Kelly controller from China so I can fine tune and maximize performance. Thoughts on this?

This leaves the 2nd cart which I have a 48v setup for. I'm hoping that I can
1. leave it at 48v using SLA's and go with that 48v 1600w 5600rpm brushless motor for $99, and the controller he sells for $50 (unless there's a better one) and be done with it.
OR
2. Remove 1 battery to drop to 36v, and go with your YK42-4 with that industrial motor you found.
Thoughts on either?

I'm thinking that based on what I've read, ranked in order of fastest down: YK42-4/industrial > Kelly/Currie > 48v Brushless...is that correct?

Whichever of the 2 setups I end up with, I guess I can just use the faster one and fine tune gearing to make sure I can get in front of her if need be.

Final thoughts? I'd like to order everything tomorrow and cease monopolizing both of your time :).

Lastly, again, my sincere thanks for both of your help.
#28297
Iworktofish wrote:What we haven't discussed, is there any good reason why I can't use my existing 48 volt SLA setup that's already wired and done on my cart, with that 1600w 48v 5600rpm wireless motor and controller?

the existing 48v SLA pack would be completely compatible with the brushless setup. these controllers have no requirement for a specific battery chemistry.

in the project forum there is a recent update with a razor MX650 build using a bracketed 60v version of this brushless motor powered up with SLAs:

viewtopic.php?f=13&p=28287#p28287

off topic, i just noticed your handle - are you a commercial fisherman, tourney angler??
#28299
wow, in shocked it wheelied and didnt simply spin the tires and take off! please post video!


Narrowing down to final choices, I already have the 900w currie, so ideally, that will be one setup running 36v using a proper controller. If you don't think something like this: http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/trsc ... oller.html will match it well and get good performance out of it, what I can do is temporarily use the YK43b at 24v (or 36v and going easy?) and then order that Kelly controller from China so I can fine tune and maximize performance. Thoughts on this?

This leaves the 2nd cart which I have a 48v setup for. I'm hoping that I can
1. leave it at 48v using SLA's and go with that 48v 1600w 5600rpm brushless motor for $99, and the controller he sells for $50 (unless there's a better one) and be done with it.
OR
2. Remove 1 battery to drop to 36v, and go with your YK42-4 with that industrial motor you found.
Thoughts on either? ""
the industrial will handle 48v on most controllers , maybe not the yk43b but it might.my .75 hp industrial handled it fine
,,, meantime, yea, get a controller cheap as possible shipped 2 day to get her kart running.. urs, run at 36v and stay off the throttle as far as accceleration.just cruise with it.. discuss long term after the trip ,. speaking of both now just makes it complicated. so get a cheap motor cheap controller 2 day.. get whatevers cheapest they all suck from monster anyway...(everything in the genrrric 30 amp category) dont waste money on stuff ur using for 2 days
#28301
YK42-4/industrial > Kelly/Currie > 48v Brushless...is that correct? ""

there all pretty even running the same amps, but the industrial would be the most powerful if all pushed to the limits.dont get a recommended controller for that 48v brushles,kelly and golden make sick programmable controllers but as i said we should avoid the long term right now and just focus on repairing the damaged kart
#28302
after reading again u wanna have the perm setups done. thats a lot of garage time doing both a permanent and temp setup on 2 karts all in a week.you will have to decide if u wanna do the brushless or industrial on one of the karts.. all depends on how fast u wanna go, how much fabrication u wanna do, the budget, etc...
#28313
zen_racer wrote:off topic, i just noticed your handle - are you a commercial fisherman, tourney angler??
Neither buddy. Been fishing for salmon, trout & steelhead on the rivers & shores of Lake Michigan on and off since 1980. Lately the hobby has taken a back seat to other hobbies.

Thanks for the info. I read that thread while falling asleep last night, but from what I recall, he was able to go 10mi instead of 8 on the brushless. I don't recall any comments about performance though. I'm now 50/50 brushless or industrial, and I think it boils down to which parts I can get teh quickest, and put together.


robnewyork wrote:wow, in shocked it wheelied and didnt simply spin the tires and take off! please post video!

there all pretty even running the same amps, but the industrial would be the most powerful if all pushed to the limits.dont get a recommended controller for that 48v brushles,kelly and golden make sick programmable controllers

after reading again u wanna have the perm setups done. thats a lot of garage time doing both a permanent and temp setup on 2 karts all in a week.you will have to decide if u wanna do the brushless or industrial on one of the karts.. all depends on how fast u wanna go, how much fabrication u wanna do, the budget, etc...


Rob, 50/50 on brushless vs industrial. (that last motor you posted is overkill LOL)

Industrial:
*I contacted that ebay seller and asked if I bought today, how soon could he ship out. UPS shows if he shipped today I'd get it Monday.
*My friend with fabrication skills says he can cut me a plate and weld it in for motor base. I'm hoping it will fit without any other cutting, and stay within the cart frame. A different seller from what appears to be the same motor gave these dimensions: Body is 8 1/8" Long, 6 1/4 tall 2" shaft 7/16 Dia.
*Where could I get a sprocket, and how many teeth? Saw this link from a post you made elsewhere regarding this motor...suitable for 20mph? http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... 2-14-D.axd
*this seems to be the cheapest route and I could use my YK43b for now at 36v and monitor heat, and be back up and running quickly. I like that I have room to push faster with this motor (I think) but I'm concerned about having enough runtime to make it around my subdivision (~3mi, 3x 15ah batteries). Any thoughts?

Brushless:
*I'm liking how this motor will extend runtime.
*Seller of that motor is hard to reach, and feedback from others is that his customer service is poor.
*You don't recommend his controller? http://www.hyperpowersports.com/product ... oller.html
*If not, know of another that I can have here by early next week? Kelly ships from China, and is the Kelly compatible with brushless motors?
*Is the brushless controller compatible with my stock thumb throttle? If not, that might complicate my timeframe.
*Getting back up and running quickly will depend on ability to source a controller locally, and how quick seller can ship from FL

Lastly, ok, here's the video LOL. Feel free to get a laugh at my blunder. In my defense, right before this I blipped the throttle hard 2x and both times the front wheel only briefly left the ground. So I didn't expect it to flip me.


Zen & Rob...help me with the above questions please, so I can decide and order parts today :).

Thanks gentlemen.
#28317
uld use my YK43b for now at 36v and monitor heat, and be back up and running quickly. I like that I have room to push faster with this motor (I think) but I'm concerned about having enough runtime to make it around my subdivision (~3mi, 3x 15ah batteries). Any thoughts? ""

3 miles is no problem at all, u could always get 2 more 15ah and go 36v 30ah.. as far as top speed ur looking at roughly 15 mph with the 36v setup,.. if u want more top speed a bit less torque get a 20 tooth sprocket as well so u can change in between the 2 .. the shipping is more than the sprockets anyway , may as well pick up some master links while there.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tran ... 2-20-D.axd

ive been moving so fast with my replies im not nearly as eloquent as i usually am in regards to explaining things or producing exact numbers.
#28321
Don't worry about eloquent replies, I get 99% of what you're saying and appreciate the fast response. For some reason I'm not getting any notifications of replies via email, even after changing email and checking settings 3x, so I have to keep checking the page.

I'm about to pull the trigger on that Ohio motor, but before I do, what do you think of this for my goals? Smaller footprint, but I don't know if those specs are good. A simple Y or N is fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-hp-24-volt-el ... SwZSFXJUG4

I've assembled a cart at surplus center including 14-17-20-23t 1/2" sprockets, 4' of chain, and 4 links.

The way I see it, if it doesn't turn out the way I like, I'm only out a $65 motor and some sprockets.

Lastly, I'm not grasping this:
robnewyork wrote:3 miles is no problem at all, u could always get 2 more 15ah and go 36v 30ah..

I'll (initially) be running 3 12v/15ah batteries in series, making 36v and a total of 45ah. Is there a battery configuration that I'm missing?

Getting excited to place an order :)
#28329
Iworktofish wrote:I'll (initially) be running 3 12v/15ah batteries in series, making 36v and a total of 45ah.

connecting in series you'll actually be at 36v and 15Ah not 45Ah.

15Ah + yk43b + industrial, maybe 20min runtime if you go easy on the throttle?

i'd stick with the 900w currie for now at 36v instead of 48, then when time constraints dont apply move fwd with the permanent upgrade on your ride and save the currie for when the kids get bigger or bored...
8mm (T8F) rear wheel sprocket

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