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I am very excited to share my second project (wip) with the community. As a result of the invaluable help from people in this group, my first project was a success. I took a Razor E300s that someone threw away and upgraded it to an 800w, 36v scooter that went about 18 mph. I really had fun cleaning it up, upgrading it, and changing the look (see pic). Unfortunately, the escooter bug bit me hard, and I wanted something faster. :twisted:

For my second project, I originally wanted to upgrade a Bladez XTR 450 (see pic). I procured 3 of them (in pretty bad shape) for around $60 on Craigslist. Decided to clean a couple of them up before deciding what to do.

I was thinking of overvolting the existing motor using lithium batteries, but after testing the 24v motor with 36v sla's, it overheated too much. After receiving some advice from zen_racer I decided to go with a Boma bldc 1500w motor. He also suggested I get a Kelly controller or Golden Motor controller. Rhyoo suggested I go with two Multistar 16000mah 6s lipos.

After purchasing the batteries and motor, I realized the Boma was going to be a pita to mount to the frame, and the lipos were too big for the battery box. Not only that, but I felt this thing was going to be pretty fast and powerful, so having only one brake and no suspension was going to be a problem. So I decided to switch strategies and see what other platform I can find that was more robust for my system. I found a Super 1000w scooter used on Craigslist for $300. It's the typical Chinese scooter, but it had what I needed: dual disk brakes, dual suspension, plenty of room for my lipos, and a spot for my Boma to drop right in. I figured it was a pretty good deal since it was fully functional and it also had an extra battery pack, so I pulled the trigger.

This is where the real journey begins. I was able to do some side jobs and earn enough money for a full upgrade including motor, lipos, charger and ps, and the controller. I have already begun my project, but I thought I'd take some time and periodically post updates so others who want to do a similar project can learn from my experience. Everything I've learned so far has come from hundreds of hours of research over a couple years. I hope others can find this thread both enjoyable and edifying.

Here are the main specs:

Super 1000 watt electric scooter 36v frame (dual disk brakes, front/rear suspension)
48v, 1500w, 4300 rpm Boma brushless inrunner motor (rpm's for Boma motors are often overstated, so taken with a grain of salt)
Kelly brushless KBS48121X mini controller
Two Multistar 6s lipo batteries (12c) wired in series for 12s (44.4v min.)
Last edited by SpaceKaseJase on Mon Jan 14, 2019 11:56 am, edited 2 times in total.

Here is a pic of my "spread". Still waiting for a few more parts to come in the mail. The first thing I had to do for my project was empty the chassis of the original SLA batteries and take out the 1000w brushed motor. What you are seeing is the empty scooter chassis, the bldc motor, an iCharger 206B, power supply, paraboard, my two lipos, two lipo buzzers, some 10 awg wire, XT90 plugs, and the Kelly KBS48121X controller.
The next thing I did was start to wire the Kelly controller. I decided to begin with the hall wire plug from the motor. Seems simple so far. Connected the ground wires (black on both ends) and 5v wires (red from motor to purple from controller). Now the hall sensor wires (blue, yellow, green) were the same color for both ends, so I matched the colors... for now. I understand that the hall signal wire and the motor phase wire combinations are a bit nebulous, so for now I start by matching the three colors of the signal and phase wires from the controller to the motor. If motor doesn't start up correctly, I will need to refer to this forum for other combos to try:

Here is a pic of the plug wiring:

Here it is connected to the Kelly controller:
Last edited by SpaceKaseJase on Mon Jan 14, 2019 11:56 am, edited 2 times in total.
I purchased my lipos in October. I was advised to put them into storage mode since I have no idea when my scooter will be ready to test. I was nervous since I had never balance charged any lipos before. My first step was to convert the charging cable that connects the lipo to the charger. I had to remove the alligator clips and replace them with an XT90 plug. This was my first try at installing an XT90, and it went very well.

While each lipo was charging, I took my newly-acquired XT90 soldering skills and made my first series harness:
Since the phase wires from the controller and the motor ended in ring connectors, it would make no sense to try to use a bolt and nut to connect them. The ends would be exposed thus risking a short, but using shrink insulation would prevent the ability to easily remove the controller for programming. So I decided to use some HXT plugs. And for the record, getting those plastic sleeves on were a b****!!!

Last edited by SpaceKaseJase on Mon Jan 14, 2019 2:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Now that the bullet plugs are installed, it's time to work on the throttle and brake wires in order to connect them to the controller. After lots of back and forth between a rep from Kelly, I think I figured out the wiring for them:

If (and I mean IF) everything works, I will create a simplified diagram of my setup.
Before I wire the key switch, I needed to determine what type of fuse to install between battery positive and the controller. After hours of research (and advice from others) I decided to forego the typical MAXI bladed fuse and go with a mini ANL 100 amp fuse and holder. The rep from Kelly verified that it will work with my setup, and I like the compact size. Picked up the following holder and fuse from my local car audio store:

According to the Kelly diagram, I also needed a 2A fuse between the controller and the key switch that came with the scooter. I found an inline glass fuse holder from an auto parts store, but the wire is so thick! I need to find a way to splice (or plug) in the two skinny red wire from the key switch to the giant wire of the fuse holder. My solution (when I get home today) is to replace the thin and thick wires with something like 24 awg wire. It will require some more soldering and customizing of the holder, but I think I can pull it off. If successful, I will wire everything up and see if I can get the key to turn on the entire system, and have the throttle work with the motor. Goal is this weekend.
So here's the dilemma I was working through: the original wires connected to the key switch were then connected to two very thin extension wires that ran down the handlebar shaft into the original controller located in the battery tray. Since I needed to connect an inline 2A fuse to the thin, red wire, the problem was that the fuse holder had wire that was way too thick. I decided to purchase some thicker wire from the hardware store to replace the thin wires, then I spliced the fuse holder into the red side.

I'm no electrician, but I hope the thicker wire doesn't pull more than 2A and blow the fuse. If that happens, I will go back and use the thinner wires. Anyone with expertise is welcome to chime in.
I also have this quirk about keeping the wires from the controller in their original state as much as possible. In order to connect the 100A fuse holder to the battery positive wire coming from the controller, I would have to cut the ring connector off, strip off some insulation, and screw it down into the fuse holder. I wasn't sure how good a connection that would've made, so I bent the connector end of the positive wire in a way that I can use the already connected ring. In order to make the clear plastic cover of the holder fit, however, I used a Dremmel to increase the size of the hole so the bent terminal will still fit. My only hope is that the terminal itself doesn't get too hot and damage the plastic covering.

The other end will be for the 10 AWG red wire to go into from the XT90 plug.
Speaking of keeping controller wires in their original state, I needed to connect the red wire from the key switch to pin 7 of the controller in order to provide power to the controller itself. Since pin 7 is the only wire I needed out of a nest of wires connected to a plug, I decided to remove the pin from the plug and create a makeshift connection between it and the red wire. This would prevent cutting off the original male connector and crimping/soldering on a different connector. The female end with the red plastic ring surrounded by wire shrink was something I got from an old craft kit my kids had when they were little. Kind of pleased with it. :D If it becomes too flimsy, I'll just use an rc connector.

Next step is to connect the black wire from the key switch to the positive battery wire coming from the controller and placing both wire ends into the positive end of an XT90 plug (and the negative battery wire into the negative end of the plug). Once this is done, I can connect everything up and hope it all works. Again, plans are to do this over the 3-day weekend.

Speaking of keeping controller wires in their orig[…]